Hi South43- As with tube rolling; much depends on what flavor of sound you are after. If softer/warmer: you might try some paper in oil(like NOS Jensens), for more resolution/detail/transparency: Vcap's TfTf and somewhere closer to the middle: Vcap's OIMP. I'm going to try Vcap TfCu's in my Cary monoblocks, as soon as they release the .47uF 600v value. Of course, what you can use depends on the room you have in your chassis, and the values required.
As always I thank you for your info. My problem is two of the three pairs have values but the output caps don't. TNT did mention the values so I may have to do some research. Perhaps changing one pair at a time? BTW lots of room but may have to use a hot glue gun or some blutak.
DON'T use a hot-melt gun! That kind of heat will cause damage to almost ANY of the higher-end caps. Rather, use double sided tape, or some of these sticky backed cable tie mounts( http://us.element-14.com/panduit/abmm-a-c/4-way-cable-tie-mount/dp/78F622?in_merch=Popular%20Products&in_merch=Popular%20Products&MER=PPSO_N_C_EverywhereElse_None ) and cable ties, pulled JUST tight enough to gently hold the cap(no crush). They should be available at any good electronics store. It's not surprising that the designer of the pre, does not want to communicate about you rethinking his design. Doing the caps that you do have values for should yield much. Go for it!
I thank you for the links and info. I'll do some shopping for the best price. I recently thought about selling but I'm a tweaker at heart Rodman99999 so stay tuned.
At the bottom of this page( http://www.partsconnexion.com/t/catalog/CapacitorsFilm.html ) there are a variety of caps on which you can click. I talked to them the other day, and was told they would be carrying the Vcap CuTf, "soon". ( http://www.v-cap.com/copper-teflon-capacitors.php ) I've also used DynamiCap, Multicap and auriCAP(all matched to 1%, by Michael Percy) in the past with great results(depends on what you're replacing). Something simple to bring life(blacker background/cleaner highs) to your power amp: Change the rectifier section to fast/soft recovery diodes( http://www.partsconnexion.com/t/catalog/semiconductors.html ), unless it has a tube rectifier. Tweaking/modding can be VERY rewarding, if one is interested in achieving the closest approximation of live music, in the home.
BTW: If the values that you have are .22uF/200V and .47uF/400V, the other two caps should be 1uF/400V. Keep your eyes open for a NOS(50's), Mullard(Blackburn plant) 6X4 rectifier, for the preamp.
The values I have are as follows: output caps .22uF 450v, coupling caps 1uF 450v, and the wima caps 1uF 450v. These are the values from the TNT review but they are for the first version. I still believe nothing has changed for my version 2 other than the pwr supply. I understand the new v-cap is supposed to be very good. TNT used the Auri caps but my choices are many from the links given. You the man! BTW: I have a rca blackplate 6X4 doing the rectifier duties.
Ok here's what parts-express has in terms of prices: Hovland--.22uF 400v $10.38 1uf 4oov $19.42, Auri--.22uF 400v $13.71 1uF 4oov $15.20, Multicap ppmfx series-- .22uf 400v $4.26, 1uf 400v $8.22. Hovlands are are on sale and the Multicaps are the least expensive. The Vcap are really high-ouch- but the most popular. With my pre not being all that in circuit design(simple)I tend to lean toward the Multicap. Any thoughts? With the 1uF caps I need four the .22uf just two.
Of course simple(less in the signal path) is best, and caps are what nature(as in, "live music") seems to abhor the most. Ergo: my recommendations are always to go with the best/least obtrusive in any application. Of the ones you've mentioned, I'd personally go with the auriCAPs. Be certain to observe the proper orientation of the caps in your circuit:( http://www.audience-av.com/capacitors/a_applications.php ), keep your leads as short as possible, and find some WBT lead-free silver solder(very low melting point). Have fun!
With a meter how would I check for proper orientation? On the caps I want to change there a white wire connected to one end and the other is a bare wire. Without a diagram to go by I need to know what to look for with a meter.
The site I posted(last) explains which lead(black) is connected to the outer foil of the(auriCAP) cap, which should be connected to the signal source in your case(coupling), for best noise rejection. Most of the better caps' leads are designated in some way to indicate proper orientation.
Yep I saw that after I wrote to you. They do a great job in explaning things. Thanks again.