Can cables of any cost and quality provide bass response missing in my B&W speakers?


I'm sure variants of this question have been offered previously, but let me ask in light of the following:  I have a very modest main system powered by an Adcom 555II amp, Adcom GFP-750 pre-amp, and run into a pair of B&W CM-4 speakers (6.5in woofer, 6.5in. woofer/mid. and tweeter, and bi-wireable).  Any music with a moderate-to- heavy bass component (organ, bass fiddle, etc) just doesn't translate to my ear.  I'm using a mid-range pair of Monster cables, and in fact tried a second pair of Z-Series to no audible difference.  On the other hand I have a legacy pair of a/d/s 1090L tower speakers (2x7.5in woofers, 6in. mid-range, tweeter) that deliver thundering bass when needed regardless of cabling used, and powered by the same system.  Even tried passive bi-amping for the B&Ws by using an old Carver M-500t amp for HF input, and Adcom amp for LF input...no diff.  Is there any point really in looking at higher-end speaker wire of, e.g., thicker gauge, or exotic geometry, or multi-conductor "shotgunning", whatever, in order to induce greater LF response from the CM-4s?  Thanks for your patience.
compass_rose
Get a good sub, end of story......
@compas_rose: This is in response to the question you asked in this thread on 12/22. Please bear with me while I get to your question.
I want to start by saying that if you want to purchase speaker cables that are professionally manufactured in my opinion one would have a hard time doing any better than the Cerious Technologies Graphene speaker cables, they seem to work well with all types of amps, a heck of a lot of bang for the buck and I highly recommend them as others in this thread have already stated. If you wanted to spend more money consider the new Cerious Technologies Graphene Matrix speaker cables, although I have not heard them I've heard from good sources that they are excellent.

I currently made, own, and use Duelund Tinned-copper in cotton oil impregnated wire 16 gauge, 12 gauge, and the Heavey Duty Western Electric wire 10 gauge.

I prefer the sound of the Dueiund wire and I run the 12 gauge on the lower speaker terminals and the 16 gauge on the speaker upper terminals. I would say that the WE is a warmer fuller sound where the Duelund is clean, transparent and more detailed.

I also use the  KLEI™Classic Harmony Banana Connector (new product) on the speaker cables I made. Originally I ran the speaker wire bare, however, I believe the cables sound better with the bananas I mentioned.
You might find this SAudiogon forum interesting: https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/how-much-difference-could-a-simple-banana-plug-make

I'm liking what I'm hearing!
I did a side by side 10 gauge and 16 gauge both same length and the 10 was blowing while I can barely hear the 16 side. Make sure when buying wire make sure it's not aluminium covered with copper. I went to Mono price company and bought 12 gauge 4 strands. That does good for me with my B&W's 683
Aluminum wire is prohibited by code from any home or commercial wiring, so if you are buying at a reputable store you don't have to worry. You need not go to Monoprice to buy stranded 12 gauge.

As for the issue at hand, it is a basic law of physics wire cannot change pitch. However, coat it with snake oil and it can do anything.  Of course, the price of snake oil varies. It's also extremely slippery.


oldguide
Aluminum wire is prohibited by code from any home or commercial wiring, so ...
Actually, aluminum wiring is very much allowed in the U.S. under the NEC, although I don’t trust the stuff. It’s also almost universally used for electric distribution - almost all of the overhead electric wires you see on utility poles are aluminum.