Cambridge Audio Azur 851N Network Player


HI, I was wondering if anyone knows the type of fuse, size amperage, fast or slow blow information for the Azur 851N uses.  I'm looking to possibly replace the stock fuse with a Synergistic Research Blue fuse?

I tried speaking to Cambridge audio support personnel and got an immediate response that if I opened the player that would void the warranty.  Then I explained the player is not under warranty and I was simply exploring the idea of putting an audiophile grade fuse in the system.  The support personnel then said, " That he did not know nor he could he divulge that information!  But, if I wanted to send it in for service that they could help in that regard.

So, if anyone has any experience with the fuse location and type of fuse this player uses I'd appreciate the help.   did a cursory search on the Internet but have not found anything specific regarding the fuse placement for the Azur 851N.  When the time comes I'll just open it and see what so super secret about a fuse.

Thanks for any help,

saberstriker

Showing 1 response by millercarbon

Seems to me if you are gonna replace the fuse- which you should by the way, the Blue Quantum Fuse is like a $500 upgrade- then you simply open it up and pull the fuse and have a look.

Finding a fuse is simple, they are almost always in plain sight right next to wherever the power cable comes in. They all have their value right on them. If its a thin wire its fast, anything else is slow. Call highend-electronics.com have Betty send you a Blue Quantum Fuse.

Then when you swap the fuse, first thing you do, tape the stock fuse somewhere inside. Because you are going to want to keep that fuse when you get rid of the player. Also for that reason I would recommend a higher value fuse. Mine are all higher, some two to three times. There was one I got that was exact value but it blew the second or third time when the component was turned on. Which for some things is when they draw the most power, right at turn-on when the power supply caps are drawing the most current. 

This resulted in a few phone calls which the people I talk to are a whole lot more knowledgeable and forthcoming than the corporate drone you encountered. Turns out Synergistic will replace these things when they burn out. Well people use them in power strips and conditioners which every once in a while some guy decides to turn his whole system on with the power strip. Which blows the fuse. They send you a new fuse, you send them back the old one. Worst part is the several days you have to suffer through with the old crap factory fuse. Once you get used to a Blue you will know what I'm talking about. Factory fuses suck!

Also I talked to the designer/builder of one of the most highly regarded components on the market who told me not one fuse had blown in any of his that he knew of ever, including on the bench during testing, AND that he had no problem with me going to a higher value fuse "just don't tell me about it" which is why I'm not using his name. Point is when the nannies get triggered all crying and wailing about burning the neighborhood down you can believe them, or the guy who actually builds high end gear for a living. Your call.

Anyway that was the only one of 5 to go in over 6 months and they replaced it for free. Hard to beat.

Even if you can clearly see the power coming in I would still recommend not putting the cover back on until you listen and swap ends to make sure your fuse is going the right direction. It will be obvious when it is. Then close it up and enjoy. It'll sound great right out of the box, then continue like any fine component to improve and get even smoother and more detailed over the next few days to weeks.