Calling all Vandersteen Fans


A little over a year ago I owned he 1Cis for a short time. While I enjoyed many aspects of the speaker, I found their top-end was a bit ripe and sibilant, with multiple amps. I ended up having to attenuate the treble by 1.5db in order to enjoy them at all.

Lately I've been thinking about how well those speakers produced a realistic decay of instruments, the likes of which I haven't encountered in any other speakers. I'm wanting to give Vandersteens another chance and am considering the 2CE SigIIs, however, it appears they and the 3As have the same tweeter as the 1Cis. That and the measurements in the Stereophile review give me pause. I suppose it could be that I didn't allow the 1Cis enough break-in, or that I was actually hearing upper midrange distortion from their 8" midbass driver

I'm soliciting input from those very familiar with the brand. Would you say the 2 Sig IIs produce a warmer balance than the 1Cis? Do they in-fact share the same exact tweeter? 

Is a 100 watt/ch amp enough to drive 2CEs to satisfying levels in a 26×15' room?








helomech
i have my Thiel 2.3 running currently w Canare Quad, evaluating it vs a loom of Type 4
I have been enjoying some Kimber in my CT system, it is an internal biwire, was supposed to be temporary as I got lengths needed sorted in new room, but finding it a good system match w overall system, my next move there will be external biwire with it. Certainly an affordable wire, I think it is Tc12
I really like the extreme value anticables present, IF WAF can be overcome. My brother fan his 3a sig for years w them, untill a move caused change in WAF, he now has a shotgun biwire pair of type 4

Vandersteen and Low of AQ share the dbs patent and most v dealers carry AQ. The model 7 amos come w 128 v DBS and AQ speaker cables for a reason, but you should think of them as a system

trying other wire is always good

seriously, if somebody wants to borrow the Type 6 ( which is ancient by AQ standards, by all means just send a pm )
@tomic601 .
That's a nice offer. But, beware. I loaned a CD demagnetizer to another Agoner and never got it back.😠-no matter, I haven't opened a CD in years after finding streaming music-(though demagnetizing CD's did make a difference).
Bob
05-17-2019 11:26am
I use an Ayre AX5/20 with built in cross over. 

Off topic: I thought you moved on from the Ayre? I love my AX-5 Twenty, probably the best piece I will ever own. I decided I couldn't wait to save for Treo CTs and bought used Thiel CS2.4SEs. I have since replaced everything from the binding posts to XOs to driver hookup wire (under the tutelage of Tom Thiel, Jim's brother). I am *super* happy.
Somewhat on topic: After break-in on my 2CeSig IIs, the midrange remained somewhat veiled. I was using a single run of Cardas Neutral Reference with an el cheapo jumper. I found a killer deal on two pairs of used Cardas Golden Reference and biwiring really opened up the sound. Still running the GRs on my Thiels which are now configured for biwiring. Replacing the OEM hookup wiring in the Thiels to Cardas nicely snapped the sonic picture into focus. I strongly recommend Cardas but AQ is also a good choice.

No, I have decided to keep it for now.  I really want the Vandy amps, but can't afford them right now. Would then need to also get a new pre, lol.  
Update: I ended up purchasing a brand new pair of 2CE Sig IIs. The dealer received them just this week, so they should be the latest and greatest iteration. Luckily, I was able to negotiate a price based on the $2700 MSRP (Vandy now lists them at $2999, and at least one dealer is asking even more (?)). 
Now I'm impatiently awaiting their arrival. 

I almost went for 3A Sigs, however, I'll likely be moving in the near future and my system could end up in a smaller space, so had to take that into consideration. 

Also bought some AQ Type-4 cable per  the recommendations here. I plan to terminate it with the standard 1/4" AQ spades for now. I just question how well they'll crimp onto those rather small-gauge wires. I suppose I'll have to reinforce the crimp with some solder.