Depends on the length of course, but I got mine used. I'm not sure what the Hero goes for new. Kimber offers three different RCA jacks affecting the Hero's price, the difference being more in higher frequencies. For bass the cheapest plug----the Ultraplate, is fine. There is a retailer in Los Angeles selling them regularly at a discounted price on the big auction site.
Hi spoutjack - I didn't think bdp24 was making a recommendation for line level vs high level hookup as much as asking you which you were using (that being line level). I agree with you. My impression starting out with a pair of SVS subs was that pre-out to line level in was the preferred way to go. I compared line level with speaker level hook up, however, and to my ears and with my gear, I thought speaker level sounded better. I'm not trying to extend my approach to others but was hoping bdp might have experience with speaker level sub connections and an associated cable recommendation. Thanks for your response.
Spoutjack - Try both ways and see what sounds best to you. There's no right or wrong about it in any absolute sense....just go with whatever gives you the best sound. I came across this old thread. Might be useful to you (this is what I was asking bdp24 about).
spoutjack's original question made it unclear as to whether he was asking for a high level/speaker cable recommendation, or a line level/RCA jack cable one for use with a Rythmik sub. My question was intended to get clarification because Rythmik subs are available with a choice of two basic amp groups: 1- the PEQ version, with both RCA jacks/line level inputs AND binding posts/high level inputs, or 2- the XLR version, with both RCA jacks/line level inputs AND XLR/balanced line level inputs but no binding posts.
Brian Ding of Rythmik recommends using the RCA or XLR jacks/line level inputs in preference to the binding posts/high level inputs whenever possible. Other sub makers and users, particularly REL I believe, recommend and prefer speaker level hook ups. The Rythmik PEQ amp allows both, the Rythmik XLR only line level, not speaker.
For hook up to a Rythmik via speaker cables, one is free of considerations other than bass/low frequencies, so a regular speaker cable known for it's good bass reproduction is an obvious candidate. Some cable companies make cables specifically for subs, but I've never tried one, as all my Rythmik subs contain the XLR version amp (370w and 600w).
Hello again bdp -
I actually used some Romex initially (leftover standard 12 gauge stuff from in-wall house wiring for 20 amp service). I’m running the subs connected to the terminals of my speakers and positioned alongside each so I only need a short run. I couldn’t get a good purchase tightening down on the bare wire ends of the Romex so I switched to doubled-up lamp cord that fit some spades i had. Doubt I’ll hear a difference but would like to pretty things up while keeping the cost as low as possible. The Kimber 8PR is pretty affordable: 5 foot, unterminated, single run (I can cut it in half) under $60.
I’m thinking Romex might be a wise choice for delivering over 2000 watts.
I have assumed I would at some point try the Kimbre 8PR (I already have KCTG, KCAG, Hero, Silver Streak, and PBJ interconnects, and 4AG speaker cables). The Tympani's have those darned Magnepan connectors, for which I'm planning on getting a set of the Magy Pins Cardas offers. There is a guy making speaker cables terminated in those pins and selling them on Audiogon, but he wants about $300 for an 8' pair. Relatively cheap for full range cables, but for subs more than I would want to pay. I still have a NOS pair of Tara Labs Space & Time Phase II 12g cables I want to try as well!
I have a pair of 12" Rythmiks in very heavy DIY sealed boxes. And B&W 804S.
Try running the preamp line out into Rythmik's crossover, take the line out of the plate xo and feed your amp. Your amp and your speakers will no longer try to reproduce signals below 80Hz. You will need to adjust the PEQ controls to get optimal response. If you have means to measure, the better.
This was an eye opening experience for me despite my hesitation from being a purist. My preamp was a Lamm so I was assuming the cheap xo in between would suck. It didn't!
That was the beginning of my journey into an active system. No looking back for me.
Sorry for the delay in responding ghosthouse, I was away from home on a gig. I was pals with Brooks Berdan (R.I.P.), and we had a nice mutually beneficial arrangement wherein I would provide him with vintage drums at my cost (I was dealing in the 90’s and 00’s), and he me with hi-fi. His choice of cable brands in his shop were Cardas and Audioquest. I didn’t find Cardas particularly of interest (I find George’s cable theory somewhat specious), and didn’t know much about Audioquest. On one trip with Brooks to CES in Vegas (as a Brooks Berdan Ltd. "employee"), I bought all my Kimber cables at industry-accommodation prices. I was looking for high transparency and extended high frequency bandwidth, which the silver Kimbers provide.
I am not what is viewed as a typical audiophile, always thinking of change in pursuit of (hopefully) improvement. The Kimbers I have are good enough for me and my modest system (by Audiogon standards!), and I have no burning desire to look for better. The only cables I’ve bought since getting the systems worth of Kimbers are 1- a pair of Clear Day Double Shotgun speaker cables (all silver), necessary only because I moved from dual mono power amps to a single stereo one. My Kimber 4AG speaker cables are only 1’ long! The Clear Days work perfectly with the Kimbers, being more alike than different. And 2- the Kimber Hero interconnects for my more recently-added subs---GR Research/Rythmik OB/Dipoles in H-frames, Rythmik F15HP’s (DIY in 4cu.ft. enclosures), and now Magneplanar Tympani T-IV’s (for both full-range use, and the bass panels as woofers for my other speakers). The Hero’s have a great bottom end for a budget cable. No need for an expensive cable with an excellent midrange and high end when it will be reproducing bass only, ay?
So if im going to go with line out (variable) on the amp to line in on the sub do i take Y splitters on both sides to hook up the subwoofer cable or get two cables?That is very bad advice IMO. I would absolutely not do that without first checking with Hegel and getting an ok from them.
Putting a y-adapter on the Hegel’s variable line-level outputs will short the left and right channel signals that are provided to those outputs together. While some people do that to provide a mono signal to a sub, and in many cases get away with it, at best it is poor practice, IMO. And depending on the design of the specific equipment (the Hegel in this case) the result could be a reduction in channel separation of the signals provided to the main speakers, or having a mono signal provided to the main speakers, or an increase in distortion, or degradation of the long-term reliability of the Hegel, or even immediate damage to the Hegel.
If an ok from Hegel to that approach is not readily obtainable, I would definitely advise running two cables. Shorting two outputs together is almost never a good idea.
Thanks Al. Returned the Y splitters If I'm going the way u said. Which makes sense. The blue jeans lc1 is ok for sub interconnect? Or u want me to
look at audioquest or kimber? Also subwoofer is for low frequencies would getting silver or silver coated cable make any difference or is that just snake oil?
thanks once again al u saved my amp!
As you most likely realize cable performance tends to be very system dependent, and I have no experience with Hegel products or with Rythmik subs. But FWIW my guess is that you would do fine with a stereo pair of Blue Jeans LC1 cables. Especially given that any effects they may have on mid and high frequencies won’t matter.
What can often be a more important consideration in connecting a sub to line-level outputs of an integrated amp (or a preamp), though, is impedance compatibility. Unfortunately neither the output impedance of the Hegel’s line-level outputs nor the input impedance of the Rythmik sub’s line-level inputs is specified. While I suspect it won’t be an issue in this case, it might be a good idea to ask the two manufacturers what those values are. In the case of the Hegel ask what the output impedance is at deep bass frequencies, and in particular at 20 Hz.
If the input impedance of the sub is at least ten times as much as the output impedance of the Hegel at 20 Hz impedance compatibility will be assured.
Good luck. Regards,