bypassing a crossover in a two-way

i am not a tech person so forgive any ignorance. i want to bypass the crossover in a simple and cheap two way, because the main driver is the same one used in the manufacturer's crossoverless design.

the manufacturer gave me the following instructions: "A 0.68uf cap in series with the tweeter + lead is all you need,, - to the - binding post." I'm not sure what this means. looking into the speaker i can see the black and red wires leave the speaker leads and inter the crossover network. leaving the crossover are two sets of black and white wires, one set going to the leads on the woofer, the other connected to the single wire from the tweeter.

am i to cut the speaker wire before it reaches the crossover and then insert the cap? if so, how, specifically, do i these three connections to a single cap (1. the input from the speaker leads, 2. the output to the woofer, and 3. the output to the tweeter)? i am not able to visualize his statement in relation to what i've described as the inside the speaker cabinet. i've looked elsewhere on the web but to no avail. i realize it is simple but just don't have the background.

any help would be very much appreciated.
Disconnect the (+) lead off the tweeter and solder one end of the cap on the tweeter and the other end onto the positive binding post.

You'll probably have to use a small wire from the end of the new cap to the binding post. As the lead from the new cap most likely isn't long enough to reach the binding post.

It sounds like there must be a series crossover in this cabinet and in order to complete the circuit but pull the tweeter portion you, you have to do this.
thanks for your i have this right? i connect the main driver directly to the binding post. in addition, i put the capacitor inbetween the positive binding post and the positive wire of the tweeter. if so, what happens to the negative tweeter wire?
You need 4 wires coming from the binding posts, two positive and two negative. One of the pairs goes directly to the woofer. The other pair goes to the tweeter, but has a cap in the positive wire on the way to the tweeter. The cap is cutting low frequency to the tweeter so you don't blow it. The woofer will be running full range.
No, no. ASAI understand (& horton as well) you solder the cap to the tweet's + and run a wire fm the cap's other pole to the + binding post. You run a wire fm the tweet's - straight to the -binding post.

OTOH, are you sure about that 0,68uf??
it sounds like 240zracer and gregm are saying the same thing, which finally occured to me at lunch least they seem to be saying the same thing (tweeter + goes to cap and other end of cap to + binding post, then negative tweet wire straight to negative binding post).

one tweeter wire is black and the other is black and white, while the main driver wires are black and red. should the black be the negative in both cases?

anyway, thanks again guys.

oh yeah, the manufacturer told me that the cap was 0.68uf so i will take him at his word (fortunately these were rather inexpensive, though i don't won't to make a truly boneheaded error and blow something i don't need to!).
Good question Gregm. I think .68uF is a 500Hz cross to the tweeter. 11.00uF is about 3000Hz and where you want to be. I did this real quick, anyone agree.....Greg?
240zracer, i'll email the manufacturer with your info and see what he says...the main driver should be flat to 10,000 Hz ...thanks!
More in the neighbourhood 30kHz if the tweet is 8ohm -- it's 0,68 microfarad... Cheers
Why, Why, Why??? The manufacturer gave you a crossover because, above the XO frequency the woofer doesn't work as well as the tweeter. Cone drivers typically have lumpy frequency response in a range before they roll off, and you really want to turn them off before that happens.

it is the same single driver used in the (subsequent)crossoverless design, it is full range to 10kh and the crossover was removed in the later model so it could be directly wired, though the SUPER tweeter was retained with a capacitor. the manufacturer didn't sedm to think it was any big deal, as a way to upgrade to the newer model.
Thomp9015...Suggestion...Modify one speaker and compare it with the other unmodified one. Another idea...Just add a shorting wire across the inductor that is in series with the woofer, with a switch in it. Now you can make comparisons just by playing with the switch.
wow, that is a darn good idea, i will definitely do that.

thanks for the suggestion, i can't wait to try it