Burn in discs vs. music for new speakers


I'm expecting a new pair of Sonus Faber Grand Piano's. Does anyone have an opinion on using a specific burn in disc or should I just play music continuously for two weeks? I'm told the speakers require a lengthy burn in period.
smwdrtwin
tune your fm station so it only gets white noise let it play for two weeks. you can listen to music during that period but switch back to fm when you arent listening. this works for cables also.
what if you dont have a tune i only have tt and cdp i fond your answer interesting jazzart tks
Burn ,burn,burn ....who wrote the book on burn in time .Is there one .My grandfather a look ways told me turn off the lights your wasting electricity...and it was a lot cheaper  then.
smwdrtwin

Buy this and just play the ’Pink Noise" track over and over, be careful of the others, they "can" damage your amp/speakers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audio-Test-Disc-Freq-Sweeps-Pink-Noise-Phase-Audiophile-Studio/184196815012?hash=item2ae2fc58a4:g:bwMAAOxyYYlRxTYV

Cheers George
Hope after 20 years those speakers are burned in!
He might have new drivers to break in.
As they get problems when old, the magnet/coil gap has very little clearance and can scrap/pole after a while if the drivers are not rotated 180 degrees every couple of years to counter the sag.

Cheers George
I bought a $69.00 CD/DVD player and this disc, specifically for burning in things: https://www.amazon.com/Cardas-Acoustics-Irrational-Efficacious-Burn/dp/B00OY8UXME       The disc has Pink, Brown and White Noise tracks, that can be played on Repeat.      They do a great job.      There are six Seimens CCAs, that I don’t want to unnecessarily wear, in my system CDP (thus- the cheapo player).                                                 In the decades that I professionally reconed speakers (as a warranty center for EV, Altec, JBL, Cerwin-Vega, Gollehon, Cetec-Gauss and a Waldom reconing center, in Orlando, FL), I never had a repair come in, do to a sagging suspension (unless they’d gotten soaked in something).
The above doesn’t include down-firing woofers, such as might be found in a Leslie, or subwoofer system.       I have seen those sag.     Just my own experience (YMMV).        YEP: another 20 yo zombie-thread (as Ralph calls them), resurrected by someone with nothing better to do.   
The above doesn’t include down-firing woofers, such as might be found in a Leslie, or subwoofer system. I have seen those sag.
Front firing,the top of the bass driver sags/leans forward and causes polling, Kef B139’s were known for it, so were my Kef B1814 bass driver and also I believe Lowther drivers had very tight magnet/coil gap and needed to be rotated every now and again.


YEP: another 20 yo zombie-thread (as Ralph calls them), resurrected by someone with nothing better to do.
At least back then there were a lot less snake oil  fuse and hrt etc etc voodoo threads
 Burn in for speaker suspension pliability/compliance is a real thing


Cheers George
YEP: another 20 yo zombie-thread (as Ralph calls them), resurrected by someone with nothing better to do.  
+1  And it is the same knucklehead doing it over and over. 

Anyone paying attention will notice; the B139 and 1814 drivers didn’t have a round frame/front suspension.     The Physics of having flat, horizontal, mountings (in most applications), would come into play, regarding sag      But; I never saw any KEFs or Lowthers, in the shoppe, so- what do I know?      Any documentation/evidence, beside your opinion, regarding the typical, round, front firing woofer, outside of those that have been stored in boxes, face down, for extended periods of time?
But; I never saw any KEFs or Lowthers, in the shoppe, so- what do I know?
You don’t. So I’m telling you.
Search yourself (just Google "rotating speaker drivers") plenty to read.
Many very tight magnet to coil gap drivers or heavy coned ones also, that sound like their polling, "can" be fixed just by a 180 degree rotation.
Other ones I remember that sagged, were the 1st model Reference 3A De-Capo and the bass driver in the bigger old Klipsch. La-Scala, Horn etc

Cheers George
And it is the same knucklehead doing it over and over.
At least there’s no duplicate threads being posted, taking up space. Burn-in is real for audio’s mechanical devices, like speaker cone suspension, phono cartridge suspension ect. Not so much for semiconductors or even caps (after they have been polarized,that is done quickly).

And no, I do not have any upgraded fuses in my system.
That’s good as there are way too many of those snake oil threads around, as I said.

Cheers George

SO, Georgie- You’re telling me you have nothing but opinion pieces and anecdotal evidence.      Funny, but- that’s what you're constantly whining about, regarding fuses.          btw: No one, thus far on this thread, has said anything about suspension break-in (or electronic burn-in) not being real.        You just enjoy changing subjects/shifting targets.     You are (somewhat) entertaining to engage in conversation, however, on occasion (good for a laugh).       ie: No one, BUT YOU, ever mentioned fuses in this thread.      Responding to your yourself now?    Skipping your meds (snakes in your head), lately?    
Skipping your meds (snakes in your head), lately?


So now your a doctor??? Please leave my health out of it.
I said why "some" drivers cones sag and then the voice coil scraps in the magnet gap, you can’t understand it, that your prerogative, I wondered then why the anger.
BTW I mentioned fuses as just one of the analogy’s for snake oil burn-in beliefs.

PS: Now I looked at your history, your an avid fuser, that’s why your backs up 🤦‍♂️.
Just play them and enjoy the music. IMHO burn in discs are a rather silly notion and a waste of energy. Just more mythology. Put on the Grateful Dead's Infrared Roses, turn up the volume, sit back and relax. By the time that disc is finished the entire house will be broken in:)