Both our systems share some commonalities. We both have the Audio Horizons TP 2.0 preamp and we both have VAC monoblocks. I just ordered two of the Wan Lung up-occ "Black" power cords for $75.00 each. I am going to try them on my Vac amps. I am going to do a serious evaluation comparing these to two versions of Electraglide cords as well as the factory stock cords. Stay in touch and see what my findings are. After a few days of living with this new Black cord, I'm very impressed with its performance on a variety of equipment, both solid state and tube. This ready- made power cord might just turn out to be a terrific bargain for everyone.
If you are of a mind to DIY, Cryo-Parts sells excellent quality materials for a DIY cord that will cost you about $120.00 each. I built two five foot cords with their Cryo-Max II ac cable and Furutech cryoed connectors that bowled me over with the improvements they made to my amp and P300 a/c regenerator. I'd used some VenHaus and Crump recipe DIY cords made from Belden cable and Pass & Seymour & Schurter connectors previously. The Cryo-Parts are very obviously superior, quite audibly on a higher level of resolution. Knowing the markup on retail products, these cords would probably sell for $500 each.
Zaikesman makes a very good point (one which I was thinking about posting earlier but was too lazy) and that is that what may work well with tube amps in terms of budget cords is probably going to be an issue of synergy more than anything else.
I did a lot of experimentation with the Volex and Belden (Crump) DIY cord a number of years ago and, frankly, in my solid state system, I found a number of reasonably priced cords to be substantially better. Matty's suggestion for the DH Labs (you can do a DIY DH with Marincos for $70 or so) is an excellent one for most people but that cord may be a bit too "warm" with tube amps. So Zaikesman's suggestion on the Sidewinder may be quite appropriate for the VAC's. Another DIY option that may work well is the JPS Labs in-wall cable terminated with Marincos (this will probably run you into the $125 area); this cord is quite good on amps (10 guage live & neutral with a 12 guage ground) and is certainly livelier and more aggressive than the DH Labs. I use both of these cords in my system and, IMO, they are both miles ahead of the Volex or Crump/Belden cord, although I've had them both cryoed and run them in well on a fridge or freezer before putting them into my system.
With my circa-200w VTL monos, the inexpensive aftermarket cord I preferred best among the several I tried was the original Shunyata Sidewinder. Probably like anything in this low price range, it's a cord with discernable flaws (brightness if used in the wrong context, and not the most refined) and isn't necessarily gonna work with every component. But on the tube amps in particular it really lent a welcome boost in the areas of clarity, speed, spatial presentation, and bass control, and just plain made the music come to life better than other similar cords I tried in this application. I also had the opportunity of comparing the Sidewinders at home with its nearest replacement in the Shunyata lineup, the Diamondback, and concluded the latter wasn't as impressive a cord, being more colored and less accomplished in those areas I noted. Sidewinders are 10ga., and were selling around the $125-150 range for 5ft. last I knew but could be lower now.
There's a new power cord made from UP-OCC copper cable designed by Wan Lung in Taipan called the "Black" by the distributor Parasound. It is a 12 gauge design and a 6 ft. cord sells for $75.00 plus shipping. I just ordered one to try out. You can contact [email protected] for more info.
Raquel, hobbyist idiots?? Really Nice statement maybe we should all summit are question to you for your great and sound advice. Heaven forbid anyone else have an opinion. As far as your comment, look into the mirror after that remark! For what it is worth i have personally had great success with after market power cords but then again I am a hobbyist idiot.
Look into the Bob Crump (RIP) Asylum cord, see the link below. This will take you about 15 minutes to assemble & should work very well. I'm running 5 of them. This is a shielded cord with a drain wire.
Cryoparts.com has the cyro'd wire & connectors for a reasonable price (and good service). Take Five Audio also has parts.
What I was saying is that hobbyist idiots who think they know how to improve really good equipment should defer to the experts (which I humbly submit is truly good advice).
Go to HD and get some 10AWG Carol cord. It's a twisted three conductor stranded copper heavy jacket cord. While you're there, get a nice hospital AC plug (they even have right angle ones at HD!) You'll have to order an IEC plug for the other end from one of the many, many sources online, unless you have a good electrical parts house in your town. Put it all together and your in biz for under $50.
My point is, that for amplifiers, ANY AMPLIFIERS, what you want is BIG conductors for FAST energy transfer. I'd bet the cord I just described (for use on an amp, that is) against ANY megabuck power cord with only 16, 14, or even 12 AWG conductors. If you want something better than what I described, consider something like a Purist Dominus, Virtual Dynamics Genesis (6 AWG!!), etc, and prepare to spend north of three grand. .
VAC products have a lot of experimentation and voicing behind them, and the stock cords with the amps were chosen for a reason. Aftermarket cords have utility with cheap products sold with improperly shielded power cords, but they can really mess with high frequency reproduction on elite products and have to be chosen with great care.
The current capacity of a power cord that is only six feet long and connected to a tube amp that draws at most 10 amps on peaks is a non-issue (the stock cords are 14-gauge, which is more than fine for the length and the product -- if you have to run 75 ft. to a big Krell, that's another matter, but no need here). Kevin claims to have tried some thirty power cords with my VAC Renaissance 140/140's monoblocks before choosing the stock cords -- if you want the amps to sound like they were designed to sound, stick with the stock cords.
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