Brinkmann Bardo and Tri-Planar VII-U armrest issue

Just got a new Brinkmann Bardo. It was a snap to put the Tri-Planar am to the arm board drilled for this arm.

I measured the spindal to pivot distance of 233.5mm with my Feickert Protractor and set up the cartridge with the MintLP.

The issue I have is when I put down the arm, the arm will touch the arm rest and not fall at the beginning of the first track. By touching the arm rest, the arm is bump to several groove from the beginning of the track 1. I did try to fix this issue for the arm rest being too close to the platter by turning the armpod but without success if I want to keep the right S2P distance. Maybe I am doing something wrong. I would appreciate any comment/help.
Is the arm board position fixed or is it an articulating arm board? If the first I would say it has been drilled incorrectly for the arm. If the second I cannot picture why the arm rest would be in the way. Call Tri Mai at Tri P and speak to him.
I am able to turn the arm board (circle) but not back or forward. I am able to clear the arm rest by turning the armboard but the distance spindle to pivot is off.
Talk to your dealer, he should be able to tell you why.

(dealer disclaimer)
Can you unscrew the arm from the arm board and rotate it couter clockwise one screw position, then srcew it back down to the arm board? If so, give that a try, and then realign the P2S distance.

I cannot do it. The 3 holes for the Tri-Planar are not equilateral triangle but are isosceles.
Whoever sold you the table should have come to your home to set it up, including full cartridge alignment, at no additional cost. At almost any level of purchase I would expect that.
Bummer. Sounds like the arm board was drilled incorrectly. One other thing to try, would be to remove the arm board from the table and flip it over. Maybe you have it upside down?
I have the same issue. I sent Tri an email and he said to bend the small rod (arm rest rod) out, or away from platter.
I tried doing this last night, but found that the small rod is very stiff. I was afraid of putting too much pressure on the rod and screwing up the tonearm frame/body.
Once I have the right tools, I will try again.
If you find a different solution, please let me know.
You can remove the flat head grub screw that fixes the armrest in position, thereby freeing the the j-hook/clip arm rest assembly to swing up or down on its metal support rod. Be warned however that removing this grub screw will be difficult - every screw on a TP is glued using a thread adhesive. A drop or two of acetone will usually dissolve the glue making it much easier to remove. You'll want to save the grub screw and obtain a new one as you'll have likely marred the head. In one arm board iteration, I had to do this to allow the arm to clear the lead-in groove as well. Just a slight downward tilt of the clip assembly did the trick, and the armrest is still perfectly functional as friction holds it nicely in place.

I am good at setting up tables, that is not my issue.

I use the Feickert Universal and the MintLp to set up my analogue.

I learn not to depend on a dealer to set up your analogue several years ago.

It is just a matter to find a way to clear that arm from touching that arm rest. I've taugh of doing what Palasr suggest. I will probably have to contact Tri Mai on this matter.
You might be good at setting up tables, but most people spending anything approaching what you did deserve and expect better service from the dealer.
I learn not to depend on a dealer to set up your analogue several years ago.
It's obvious you haven't found a capable dealer. See my comment above.
Here is the fix/adjustment (there is nothing wrong with the arm)

remove the arm from the armboard

You will find a large screw in the middle of the base of the arm. Loosen it and sort out where the arm rest should be. Tighten the screw and reinstall the arm.

This will have a minor effect on the anti-skate, probably for the better.
Essential Audio

The issue has nothing to do with my dealer.

He always offered to set up my cartriges/arm/table over the years,even driving to my house to do so (the shop is approx 100 miles from where I live). But I decided that I had to learn how to do it myself.

It is a must to learn how to set up a turntable for someone to wants to be in analogue. With time, I became pretty good at it.

My issue has nothing to do on how to set up a table, I think it has more to do with the drilling of the armboard for the Tri-Planar.

I don't think there is anything wrong to be able to do it yourself.

As for service from my dealer, he always deliver to my door any equipment I will buy from him and help to set up (if it is heavy).
This may be your problem.
HI Pcosta

I read about this subject and contacted Tri Mai with this issue last year.

I am not the one who drill the holes for the armboard. I am able to get the right S2P by rotating the armboard on the Brinkmann.
Acadie, I see your point. Thanks for clarifying.
Have you tried contacting Tri? If so, what did he say?
Then you shouldn't have a problem getting the pivot to spindle right by doing what Atmashphere wrote and rotating your armboard.
the problem with rotating the armboard is that the arm is mounted on an eccentric. i had the same set-up for a while. rotating the armboard changed the P2S distance. i ended up using a P2S of 255 and adjustung the cart forward in the headshell to align at that P2S using the feikhert.
if i had this issue again, i would have a look at what atmasphere said above. i wasn't aware of that screw. as you mentioned, maybe the combination of rotating the arm in it's base and rotating the armboard will maintain the spec'd P2S. i don't fret over the P2S, it's a starting point. as long as you align properly with the baerwald or loefgren scale, that's what the slots in the headshell are there for.
Sheesh you guys! I ran into this problem years ago and realized that it was a setup problem (that article that Fremer wrote BTW is hogwash). Just do as I said- remove the arm (that is 3 screws) flip it over and you will see a single screw in the middle of the mounting flange. Loosen it, determine where the arm rest should be, tighten the screw, then remount the arm.

If you don't know what you are doing it might take 5 minutes. I can do this adjustment in about 2 minutes.

No other adjustment is needed. The Triplanar is the most adjustable arm in the world, but you have to understand that you do indeed have to set it up right to begin with. This screw is part of that setup; IOW if you have a problem with the arm rest being too close to the LP, you don't have it set up right and you have no-one to blame but yourself.
Acadie, I had the identical problem when mounting a Tri-planar to my Oasis. Atmasphere's solution would seem the most informed and elegant. My solution was to bend the armrest a millimeter or two at the dogleg so the arm would clear. Inelegant but effective, with no discernible ill-effects. Had I known about the screw underneath, however, I would have done it that way.
+1 to Ralph's (Atmasphere's) posts. Just do what he said. I've corrected two TriPlanars this way myself.

Don't take the screw out all the way, loosen just enough to make the adjustment.

Be careful not to stress the bearings. Hold onto the VTA tower, not the arm.
Problem fixed! Thank you very much Ralph for your suggestion. It was a learning experience.


As this info isn't in the owner's manual, it ought to be included in the TriPlanar Tips thread. Please consider posting a synopsis there.

^^ good idea- and done.
Someone should also forward this info to Tri Mai as he has given the "bend the tonearm support bar" solution to more than one customer (including me). Thankfully, my solution included re-drilling a new mounting plate.
Tri is very aware of it- it is he that told me where to look in the first place. Funny its not in the manual though. I'll mention that next time we talk.
When I first discussed it with him (8-9 years ago) his position was that this was not a user adjustment and touching it would invalidate the warranty. I can't imagine why, it's easy and really can't hurt anything if done properly (which the manual should explain).

OTOH, I can't imagine that bending the armpost shouldn't invalidate the warranty (Really? Who would do that?). Very strange advice.
To be fair, Tri's advice to bend the arm post was given to me back in 2010.
Hi Doug, I had a conversation with him about this yesterday. He maintains that when the arm is sent out, that the mount is installed according to a jig so that it is correct.

The problem is that quite often the arm board, which is supplied by the turntable manufacturer, is often not set up correctly (and we are not talking about this nonsense article that Fremer wrote- that is a topic for another thread). He explained that there are compatibility issues not unlike what you might run into between an amplifier and loudspeaker, but obviously mechanical rather than electronic. IOW some arm boards are simply drilled wrong and the problem gets blamed on the arm manufacturer. Tri thinks the blame ought to be 50/50...

However this solution works and he did say that they will be doing another owner's manual which will include more setup hints.

OTOH, I can't imagine that bending the armpost shouldn't invalidate the warranty (Really? Who would do that?). Very strange advice.

I did it and believe me, I was chary. But the amount of bending required is infinitesimal. If performed where there's already a bend, no one could possibly tell the difference by inspection, and it has zero effect on any other parameter if done carefully.