There are speaker to line level adapters which are basically big resisters to reduce the output. It should work great
have you considered buying a preamp with pre-out/main in.
ANY sub (self-powered), using line in/internal crossover/line (minus low bass) back to preamp is the best way
the self-powered sub’s amp takes the job of low bass, most of the power needs
the stereo amp driving the main speakers doesn’t need to make low bass, thus it can be lower power, less cost/size/weight, more placement options
main speakers don’t try and make low bass, thus they do a better job.
this is the best way to try tube amps with speakers of lower efficiency than horns, or other high efficiency ones.
I’m not sure that is a problem. The sub itself should attenuate the signal by setting the crossover and the gain/ volume. This is off the top of my head thinking but I have had my coffee. So I can’t even use that as an excuse if I am.
BTW what integrated are you using?
Also, you should call SVS and see what they recommend.. This is what you should do before proceeding.
Doesn’t the preamp need to be able to attenuate the level of the sub? The sub amp won’t do that.
On another note, every sub I have owned has blended better with the main speakers using the high level inputs. I don’t even try with pre outs anymore.
That’s how I connected mine. I use banna plugs for the sub and raw wire for the speakers. I actually think the slight impendence change the sub adds helps the overall sound.
Record outs are fixed output so the volume of the sub will stay the same indipendent of the volume of the music... not reallly what you want. Speaker to line level adapters are really inexpensive and worth a try before you sell your sub.
"On another note, every sub I have owned has blended better with the main speakers using the high level inputs. I don’t even try with pre outs anymore."
That is just not true in my experience.
And for the OP the forum above does reference a Iso-Max unit that can do what you would like.
I can’t return the sub because I bought it from the original owner who also bought and didn’t use it. Also don’t have the box.
rec out is not an option as the sub will stay at the same volume regardless of the amps volume setting.
as far as google, I’ve always thought of forums like this as places to seek help and share with others interested in similar pursuits.
There are speaker level to line level adapters. There seems to be some disagreement over whether you need a second set of speaker terminals to connect it to or if you can piggyback it to the same terminals that are driving your main speakers. I think this would compromise the sound of at least your subwoofer if not the mains speakers as well but don’t know just guessing.
Call SVS and see if they have a seller/buyer warranty transfer policy. You need the serial number. Power Sound Audio has a seller/buyer warranty transfer policy that’s good for up to 5 years. And SVS has their own policies too and you may be able to return or trade up for one that suits your needs. Wouldn’t hurt to try.
If you can’t return it to SVS, I think they also sell the boxes for their subs for shipping, as this scenario happens all the time and then you can re-sell to anywhere.
I guess the old adage applies here; - - - "you get what you pay for".
There is simply so much information and tech available on the REL website, I'll admit that I'm somewhat shocked that you didn't research before buying. That virtually applies to any and all audio gear. ESPECIALLY a product that you have no reasonable way of auditioning or at least talk to a knowledgeable sales tech, who could easily walk you through the pros and cons before you buy. REL offers so much more than just adding another low frequency octave. REL is arguably, the "best of the breed".
I posed this same question to Legacy before connecting sub. Should I high-pass as described by @elliottbnewcombjr? Not with these speakers, they said. With electrostatics or other bass-shy mains, maybe so, but better results with Legacys, which play flat to 31Hz, rolling off to 22, when you use preamp line out to sub, let the mains run full-range, and cross the sub at 31Hz (top of Octave0). @ozzy obviously agrees. Anyhow, I am following this advice with good results. Depends on what mains you are using, however.
A couple of notes....
The 2000 Pro sounds better and is more musical than any Rel at that price point. It is also much easier to integrate and is a very musical sub. I am not an SVS fanboy, although I do have 4 of them. Also, what is the Ops use-case? Music or HT?
If he got a 'Good Deal' on it, then he/she/it can sell it and not lose anything in the process as that sub is now close to the 1k mark.
In my experience, the only sub that has come close to the 2000 Pro at that price point is Rythmic. However, it is much more difficult to integrate but in my opinion some of the Rythmic subs are better.
On another note, there have been a few posters on the forums who bang on about speaker level inputs being superior in every way and that is utter nonsense. We are at a point with any decent sub that proper integration can be achieved in a number of ways. There are no absolutes and anyone banging on in absolute terms should be dismissed summarily.
Of course, that is from my experience, and therefore my opinion.
If it matters to anyone, I have 1x SB 2000 Pro, 1x SB 4000 Ult. and 2x SB 16 Ult. All combined with Dynaudio Contour range in various rooms. I am in the process of selling the 4000 and switching to the Rythmic F12 because imo the 4000 is not a very musical sub and I am Music 85% and HT 15%. I am keeping the 2000 for my office which is same Ratios as above. The dual 16's I am keeping for HT duties in main system, but I am adding dual F12's for Music.
The Op has a few options at their disposal, but calling SVS will most likely yield the best results as their Customer service is exemplary. (As is Rythmic for what it is worth - Not so much for Rel).
I’ve owned three Rel subs and also own an SVS. The Rel’s have a built in line level adapter. Most Rel fans like to connect their subs off the amps speaker terminals with the speakon connector (Zu has this connection too).
You might consider buying from a local dealer and having them hook it up for you in the future
I can see the point of keeping full range signals to mains that go as low as yours do, makes sense, and then you simply make sure that the main amp is good for those speakers/space.
my latest kick:
Have you bought a SPL meter and measured what the speakers actually produce, at your listening position. I finally bought an inexpensive one as a tool to adjust and refine location, toe-in, and my vintage speakers have L-Pads for the mid horns and horn tweeters.
You would learn/adjust both the mains and the subs, refining the sub’s crossover as well.
I wish I had bought one many years ago.
doesn’t need to be perfectly calibrated, just indicate SPL in relation to the adjacent frequencies. Or, if you want to know actual rather than relative numbers, calibrate it, they come with instructions.
I have several test lps and cds, I find this test cd is most helpful, among other content: 29 individually selectable frequencies, each track 1 minute long, i.e. not annoyingly short. select, see results, pause, adjust, play; next frequency, it takes a while.
It sounds like you want to keep your front end.
Why can’t you return it to the dealer you purchased it from? They should advertised up front the subs wouldn’t work with your system.
there isn’t anything like REL. I have two S2 SHO’s and they totally changed my system. Their high level connection allows them play like woofer and their LFE connection for Home Theater. I think of SVS for home theater for special effects.
I thought this also....But just this week, I decided to try this hookup with my system
Schiit Freya preamp / VTA ST120 Dynaco Tube / Node2i / Gustard X16 DAC / KEF LS50 Meta / SVS 1000 sub....
Feeding the signal through the sub and back to the power amp totally destroyed the sound imaging and stage of my system.
On one particular track, Rolling Stone "Symphony For The Devil".....When the power amp is directly into the LS50 speakers, the piano is way right of the right speaker. It so freaky that you would swear there is another speaker to the right of you.
When the signal is routed through the subwoofer, the piano moves TO THE LEFT of the left speaker and seems to be coming from behind the stage!
I tried it back and forth many times. Checked and rechecked my wiring. Used the PHASE control on the subwoofer in every conceivable position (Its variable on this subwoofer)...And the results are always the same. I had three other people listen to it to be sure it wasn't MY ears playing tricks on me.
I'm totally convinced that taking a great audio signal, and routing it through yet another piece of equipment and then back into the power amp and to the speakers is a bad idea.
I have RCA 80Hz High Pass filters that I can insert before the power amp feeding the LS50s......This does not do anything to imaging or sound stage....but with LS50 it muddies up the upper bass. The LS50, IMO, want to be played full range with a subwoofer and let the natural 50Hz roll off play into the sub with the sub crossed over at 70Hz.....Not so with my Magnapan MMGs....They love the bass totally removed under 80-Hz......Different speakers want different subwoofer set ups.
"Going to pick up a Rel Britannia b3."
That's a 15 year old design when the company was R E L, not "REL."
Completely different company, with different direction. . Part of the last lineup when it was still made in England.
I use 2 B3's. They do the job, but are a different animal compared to the current "REL."
Hopefully, you are aware if it has a problem, you're SOL, as REL does not handle issues with R E L products.
As some have mentioned and I can attest to, SVS is not a very musical subwoofer, but it has lots of "boom boom". I sold my SVS SB1000, sounded terrible with my Monitor Audio speakers. They actually sound better, stand alone without a subwoofer for now. I do have two SVS PB1000’s in my HT setup, and truthfully, great "boom boom" from movies. Enjoy your new Rel B3 and let us know how it works out for you, cheers.
I use an SVS 2000 Pro sub with my JBL L100 Classic speakers and I have gotten them to blend really well together. They are a very musical subwoofer if you connect it correctly and use the SVS software to control the sub. I spent close to a month dialing it in, made many notes, trial and error and got the sound “just right” for my taste. You are blaming the sub when you made the mistake to not check out fully what your receiver has for inputs and outputs. Don’t diss the sub for your own mistakes.
I own a pair of REL T/7i subs and a pair of SVS 3000 Micro subs. They are similar in size, but the Micro's are a bit smaller…an eleven inch cube. The T/7i has a single front-firing 8" active driver with a 10" passive driver on the bottom while the Micro's use dual opposing 8" active drivers.
I got the Micro's because I've been waiting for ages for SVS to make a subwoofer that's designed for audiophiles with dedicated 2-channel setups instead of the home theater behemoths that dominate their product-line. I was not expecting the Micro's to give my beloved T/7i subs much competition, but after living with them for a few months, I actually prefer the sound of my system with the Micro's.
I was using the high-level inputs with the T/7i, which I prefer, but my preamp happens to have s 2nd pair of outputs that can be used for subs, so no complications with hook-up. In both cases, I'm running my main speakers full-range, but controls on the SVS enable better integration than I could achieve with the REL's.
Before this, I did try the SVS SB2000, but I could never get good integration with them for 2-channel use, so they went back. The 3000 Micro's are completely different and definitely keepers. Most reviewers who have evaluated the new T/7x and 3000 Micro prefer the former. Perhaps I would too, but in my system, the Micro's pull out ahead of the T/7i's.
The REL b3 may be a 15 year old design but the one I brought home today looks great and sounds better. I was able to get it to blend with my Sonus Faber pretty easily and it truly does disappear from the room. You shouldn’t be so quick to dismiss vintage audio gear. I have owned and enjoyed some equipment almost as old as I am and most of it worked better than I do. I am really happy with my current setup which was put together on a pretty tight budget.