Best Way to Spend ~ $2000 for System Improvement

Hi fellow music lovers! I have about $2000 right now to improve my system. It can be for any component, but I'm thinking amplification first, power, pre, or integrated. SS or tube.

To begin, right now I have a Mccormack 0.5 Deluxe power amp with "A" revisions, an Eva 2 passive preamp, Metrum Octave v1 DAC, Dell laptop for music files. Sometimes I use a Teac H750 as a transport and GMA Pico Executive speakers. The room is small, about 14x18x10ft. I listen to about 50/50 rock and classical, mostly full orchestral. As far as just sound goes, I would like the bass to be "fast". No delay or overhang, not exaggerated, but detailed. Detail is important at any frequency, the more the better, but not at the expense of musicality. I realize at this price point, compromise is necessary, and treble would be the best place for that. No harshness allowed, but I'm in my later 50s now and don't hear treble like I once did.

I hope I've given enough info to get some good suggestions. I like the sound now, but think it could be better, maybe a slightly lower noise floor and a little more pace and rhythm while retaining it's sweetness and smoothness. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. BTW, if any existing question answers any part of this question, feel free to link it.
Post removed 
Good suggestions have been given. 
Good quality AC power is a prerequisite for good sound,  so dedicated lines and high quality AC receptacles are fundamental needs. 

I also agree with Scott, Al  and lowrider regarding the consideration of adding a high quality active Line Stage. 

I believe that these two steps would clearly help  satisfy your goal and direction. 
Again, thanks for the replies! I will provide as much info as I can. I had considered the passive pre as  something to be replaced but the interconnects to the amp are only 1/2 meter. I don't know how the pre is regarded in general in the audio community, maybe it is the weak link. My computer is plugged in across the room from the rest of the system, but I don't know for sure if it's on a different circuit. Of the purely audio components, the amp is plugged into the wall and the rest are into a Monster HDP 850 power strip. I'm sure I could do better there.

One thing I left out was the USB/ SPDIF converter is a Musical Fidelity V link. I really don't know how much difference that makes, and the usb cable is Belkin gold series. The coax cable is Beldin, I forget the #. Using the Teac does sound a little better, clarity wise anyway, but not really THAT much better. I guess since the digital out goes directly to the DAC? My speakers are on spikes.

OK, assuming an active pre will get the sound closer to what I want, does anyone have any specific recommendations? I haven't been following audio like I used to and really could use suggestions as to what to keep an eye out for. Again, thanks to all of you.
Hello  xrayz, 
I'd recommend you  look into the Atma-Sphere UV-1 as a possible contender given the track record of its builder. 
... the interconnects to the amp are only 1/2 meter.

... the USB/ SPDIF converter is a Musical Fidelity V link.

I see that both versions of the V-Link for which information is available at the MF site (the V-LinkII and the V-Link192) have specified output impedances for their coaxial outputs of 50 ohms. Which is absurd if true, as it would create a gross mismatch to the 75 ohm input impedance of components such as your DAC which provide standards-compliant S/PDIF inputs, as well as to the impedance of standard 75 ohm digital cables. The likely result being unpredictable but almost certainly adverse sonic effects, which among other factors would vary unpredictably as a function of the length of the digital cable.

On the other hand, though, I see that John Atkinson’s measurements in Stereophile’s review of the original version of the V-Link ( made no mention of such an issue.

Assuming you are using the coaxial output of the V-Link, as opposed to its Toslink output, I would suggest that you contact MF and ask them if that 50 ohm spec is accurate. If it is, my one suggestion beyond what has already been said is that you consider replacing the V-Link.

Good luck. Regards,
-- Al