Best way to couple monitor speakers to stands?


I made some Sound Anchor copy 4 post stands for my Revel M20 monitors. They are very heavy and I think the sound is noticeably better than the stands I was using before. I am using 4 dabs of blue tack to couple the speakers to the stands. I wondering if big improvements can be made with something else. The top of the stands are 3/4" thick by 2" steel bar roughly the same size of the speaker and then at each corner a 2x2 steel tube runs down to a bass. Looks just like the sound anchor 4 post stands. I filled everything with sand/lead shot.

Is blue tack good enough?
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Somec59's comment will,by a huge margin, provide the greatest improvement in sound--and it's easy to try.
Sound Anchor does supply coupling discs, that is what got me thinking about something better than just blue tack. I think I'll just try some of the Herbie's Dots and see how those work. Thanks for the suggestions.
I put black diamond racing pucks between my stands and speakers with great results without putting my speakers in peril. Realized a more even tonal balance with an improvement in delpth and clarity.
Go to Walmart and get Scotch foam mounting squares they are double sided and cost about $2.00,they work as well as any other stick on device I have used.
The best method would be attach via screws to firmly couple to your speakers/stands. This is what I would do with my Merlins, but refuse to drill into the cabinets so I use blu tak. I think the secret is to use just very small blobs. About the size of bb in each corner will hold very securely.
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I guess I mean whatever sounds best. It's nice that the blue tack sort of glues the speakers to the stands so if they did get bumped they wouldn't come off, but what I'm looking for is whatever sounds best. I suppose acoustically couple the speakers is what I'm looking for.
The M20s have threaded holes in the bottom. When I owned the M20s I mounted them to my Sound Anchor stands via a plate I made with holes drilled to match the M20 mounting holes. I had to drill counter sunk holes in the plates to match the stands mounting holes. Once complete the speakers were firmly coupled.
The next question is, was the sound improved?
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Herbies Big Fat Black Dots are an excellent interface material. I use them between the lower and upper modules of my VSA VR4JR speakers with a significant improvement in clarity and dynamics and use them also for my monitors on stands. They come with a money back guarantee But I'd guess you won't part with them once you give them a try.
A very inexpensive alternative is to use V-Pads available from heating and air conditioning suppliers for about $3 @and are identical to Mapleshade IsoBlocks.
I found each of these approaches vastly superior to blue tack.
I disagree with Wendell in that while it is a very effective coupler it changes the sound of the speakers I use, which are both ported and closed box. If your top end is a little bright it will bring it down considerably. But many, including Martin Colloms agree with Wendell. My own experiences have led me to prefer cones or my current preference, roller bearings. Not for the faint hearted or those with small children or large pets. There are real differences between the sounds of these that stem from whether the speaker is coupled or isolated from the stand and what the vibrational characteristics of the stand is. But the Blu-Tak or its generic versions is the cheaper way to go so try it first.
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Blu-tack is very effective and offers the added advantage of not damaging the bottom of the speakers.

Wendell