You need an external crossover with level controls such as Marchand XM44. If you go with Marchand, he will advise you regarding crossover points and slopes.
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Credit cards only add more to the price tag.
I gave this a lot of thought a few years back. Primarily because I wanted more out of what I had than I was getting then. My issue was more a 'desired difference' in the sound itself than in the area of proper power applications.
I found my answer or an acceptable one by changing both speakers and amps... and another amp or set of speakers might yet be forthcoming. Though I'm in no hurry, so that says something too I suspect.
Although if one is plumb serious and dedicated to the propositio of bi amping, great results can be had, I think the majority of the crowd here will opt for more closely matching amps to speakers... or vice versa than to add more amps to the existing speakers given the possible pit falls pursuiant to that matching.
I suppose though it ought to be enlightening, and perhaps fun too just to see what happens.
I'd think a set of active lower end speakers whose only needs were those for powering the mid & Tweeters might be where I'd go. Maybe. Good luck in any event.
Latency differences between amplifiers? Not unless they do signal processing of some sort. If you're just talking about a run-of-the-mill analog amplifier latency is a non-issue.
Sensitivity variance is a very real and important consideration, even for amps of the same model from the same manufacturer. The amps need to be matched to a fraction of a decibel, and gets complicated if you're going to use horizontal bi-amping, because you'll have different amps on the same channel. At least with vertical bi-amping you might be able to solve some problems with a balance control, assuming you even have a balance control.
For the most part, IMO, passive bi-amping is a waste of money. If you have very complex, power-hungry multi-driver speakers with complicated crossovers you might get an audible benefit, but unless you have a special situation I wouldn't bother.
Active crossovers with multi-amping is the best way to build a multi-driver speaker, but so few are available in the market. One that comes to mind is the Linkwitz Orion. Another is the Legacy Audio Helix.
I've tried passive bi-amp with tubes and SS on my Apogee panel speakers a few times.....and I never liked the results.
That said. I tried it again a few weeks back (different amps of course), and I do like the results this time......so I think it's the luck of the draw when passive bi-amping?
Funny, early trials were an attempt at higher sound quality, and I had no luck. This time, it was simply tried out of user need, and as a last resort before selling off some extra amps... (a system down size) from two systems, to one system (and I'm happy with the results).
Really I'm tri-amping. A pair of large passive subwoofers pick up the bass below 80hz, and Audyssey room correction does what it does.
My advice: It works, or it does not work. (and mostly it does not work).