My floor is so wobbly and hollow, (I live in a 30' yurt), that I'd almost given up on using my turntable except when all 'traffic' was gone. Out of pure frustration built a four cornered bungee suspended platform attached to my component stand. Worked so well I was shocked so I decided to build a portable one I could just set on top of cabinet. Not so easy. Failed repeatedly and dramatically. Portable prototypes often made situation worse. The weight of platform, length and grade of bungee, stability of four corner posts, and need to hyper adjust level all contributed to isolation magic. On about attempt 10 I finally achieved and surpassed the original. Best of all, my cheap table now sounded fantastic. Isolation is everything (almost)
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Super advice everyone! Got me thinking outside the box....I have built a wooden frame 24" X24" X 6" with one semi heavy bungee cord woven back and forth creating a trampoline weave which being tested with the weight of the sub causes it to hover on the bungees, hence BOING BOING BOING. Did the same for my turntable (except it included a platform to set table on). [Took 10 attempts to get the right spring which isolated from foot fall and micro vibrations and sounded much better] Added foam feet with felt under sub suspension frame. Now to run the power cord and connections without crisscrossing over any other cords. Many ways to skin a cat i.e. isolate a sub. Thanks team Audiogon. Now for the listening tests. |
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Aluminum-Speakers-Isolation-Amplifiers/dp/B07K9ZYP84?pd_rd_w=rCgHf&a... Don't waist your time. Just get the springs remove or add more than 4 to the sub. At 50 lbs you might need to remove a spring or two. Mine are 175 lbs for the smaller subs 6 did the trick. Over 200 lbs I use an inner tube. for Bass bins, subs or columns. I used innertubes for 20 plus years on 500 lb bass bins. NEVER had a blow out. I aired them once a year and used spring loaded casters in the corners. You know the tube doesn't have to be filled with air either. Water and air are used all the time in inner tubes for traction and weight.. They still act as a type of shock material. Water tires are quieter and easier on the operator. I'm not sure on noise and water though. Silicone liquid is VERY quiet.. I'm sure all types of oil are too.. Air is pretty soft? How do you make it thicker? You can foam an innertube and then add air TOO. That is actually how a NO Flat tire works.. Still have to air the tire.. |
I would just get the feet and surely will do so but my floor is "special". After a year of trial and mostly error finally cured my turntable issue. Now my wife can dance through the listening/living room with no problem and never have feedback. Additionally the quality went off the charts. (Hyperbole alert) But the SVS SB 2000 will certainly create its own set of challenges. Springs sound right and Townsend is too pricey for this lowly music lover. So in the shop I go to create a spring loaded sandwich. I thought a bottom board and top board suspended by four springs should do the trick. Any tips on this idea? I like the plastic wrap and form damping insert idea. Sub only weighs around 50 pounds so shouldn't be too cumbersome of a situation. Thanks for everyone's help. I guess the subDude pad is helpful but only in a limited way. Suspended from ceiling on spring platform might work too? |
Springs are the best solution, for sure. The method mitch2 describes will certainly work. It is however a lot of work. I went through it and have some springs. You are welcome to them. For about what it will cost just to ship them you could get a set of Nobsound springs. These work just as well but a lot better because you don’t have to calculate anything just add or subtract springs as needed. The leftover springs can be used under other components. Easily the best value in bargain vibration control. If you want a lot better Townshend Pods or Brackets are a lot more money but worth it. If what you really want is isolation then Nobsound. If you also want improved sound quality and are willing to pay for it then Townshend. In between, the other stuff you are considering, costs a lot more but not any better than Nobsound. Only worth paying more if making the jump to Pods. |
I have had good luck with damped springs. For damping, encase the spring in thin-wall heat shrink that is shrunk just enough to define the shape of the spring....i.e., not sloppy but also not too tight. By just covering the top and bottom of the spring with the heat shrink that should protect both the bottom of your subwoofer and your floor, or add a furniture foot protector under the spring for additional protection. Some also stuff a bit of foam inside of the spring for damping. Sizing the springs is a bit of an art with the main parameters being diameter, length, compressed length, maximum load, and spring constant. Here is a source that offers a wide variety of springs, sells in small quantities, and provides a nice tool to help you choose the right sized springs for your situation. Keep in mind that one end of your sub is likely to be heavier than the other, which can be handled by the positioning of your springs, by placing an extra spring or two under the heavy end, or by using springs with two different maximum load capacities. As hints to sizing, try and end up with the compressed length being the same when all the springs are positioned and loaded, and try to run the springs near the middle of their operating range. There is a picture of springs encased with heat shrink damping material on my system page, and also a picture of springs positioned under my main speakers. I also use them under my two subs. |
