Best products for baffle material s ?


Looking for the "best" combination of materials. Building new boxes for my B&W CM1 bookshelfs as I can feel vibration on the baffle and sides, with classical music, quartet, at even very modest volume. These are very small 2 ways - so I can afford to go "all-out" on the boxes. High mass, inert, shaped baffle to minimize diffraction, interior design to break up waves. I'm considering only products that can be "woodworked". More detail later. Thanks.
ptss

Showing 9 responses by rodman99999

Peter- Do you know of a company that is currently using solid hardwoods in their speaker cabinets? The last that I can think of were the Cizeks, made of strips of Koa wood, glued together for stablity. Even they used a plastic baffle board(acuthane, or something like that).
Second the Corian. It's non-resonant and will not contract and expand, as will any hardwood. Reasons virtually no one uses solid hardwoods as cabinet material.
Hello Peter- Saw a lot of talk about veneers, glues and
finishes on that site, but nothing about solid hardwoods, or
cabinet construction. I'm guessing those are your
speakers(PBN). Are you saying that the front baffles(or
entire cabinets) are solid maple? Beautiful craftsmanship,
BTW!
So, Peter- no solid hardwoods? Yes; voidless plywood(ie:
Birch) has always been a good(and expensive) option, for
speaker cabinetry. Probably the most expensive component of
any of Klipsch's early systems. In the 80's; I was using,
"47lb Industrial Roseboard," which was the highest density
fiberboard available. I suppose that would be the
equivalent
of today's, "HDF." None of my home systems were
as large as yours, hence; baffleboards didn't need that kind
of thickness to combat resonances. You guys do some beautiful
veneering. I used to order mine from Bob Morgan.
Mr C- Thank you. Never heard of that company. I'd be interested in comparing the sounds of the various species of wood they use(same models/internals/drivers, but different woods).
@Ptss- Some points about Corian; it can worked exactly as
wood(routed/dadoed/sawn/dove-tailed), but should be worked
somewhat slowly. Drills and taps nicely, for mounting drivers
with machine screws and/or clamps(obviating the need for T-
nuts). Dupont makes colored acrylic epoxies, specifically for
Corian, that can be used to layer sheets to whatever thickness
you desire, or to make visually seamless joints in a cabinet.
Unlike wood; it can also be thermoformed, if(for example) you
want to create a curved baffleboard. Versatile stuff!
(http://www.homedepot.com/c/BP_Corian)
As long as the internal volume and acoustic centers of the drivers remain consistent with the original design; no negatives should arise. Only reduced diffraction, from the baffle. That's hoping that the system was not voiced to compensate for cabinet resonances. To me; anything the the cabinet adds is editorialization and colorization. I don'r want my cabinets adding anything, of their own, to my music. Of course: many appreciate those additions. Diff'rent strokes, etc.
Of course, Peter. Somehow- I thought you had already covered
that elsewhere and that the OP had replied, in the
affirmative.
BTW, Ptss: You mentioned doing the cabinets in black.
Corian has a color called, "Nocturne" that can be
polished to resemble a Piano Black finish. Would look
sharp, with no visible seams and a 1/2" radius, on all the
corners. Personally; I'd dovetail the sides, top and bottom
and install the front and back with dado joints. Talk
about a solid/non resonant cabinet! I can send you a sample
piece, if you want to get an idea of how rigid, dense and
workable it is.