Best Dark Sounding Amp For Bright Speakers?

Um, go over to diyaudio for help in modding the crossover. :)

That will be more effective and cheaper, plus you'll find knowledgeable geeks who may know exactly what to change. 

Best,


Erik

An older Classe amp, will work well. Try a  15 or CA150 or 200. They are smooth and tube like without the tubes. Well, kind of.

Put cotton in it till it hz

My system is comprised of a VTL TL-2.5 preamp, Adcom GFA 5500 amp, Infinity Kappa 8.1 speakers, Yamaha CD transport, Audio Alchemy DDE1, Interconnects-Audioquest Diamondback,Monster M950. Speaker cable Straightwire"stage"
MFB33

Rcrump, LOL :). On a more serious note, we still haven't identified the offender here: the speaker, the amp or the source? If Mfb33 could get back in the light of responses above...

I have recently heard the Kappa 200 monitors...and they didnt sound bright to me...I dont know how old yours are...
but the 200 is danish made...and struck me as being slightly laid back in character...as far as changing gear...there are 2 options...more tube power...or a more forgiving speaker...ala hi-end british SPendor,Castle,Proac,etc...I too find alot of speakers bright...but the Kappa 200 surprised me....

why not get a source component that helps alleviate the situation? a bel canto dac is rounded at the top, should help level things off a bit.
rhyno

Curl tried the socks over the ears and even in Berkeley that was too much of a fashion statement.....

Tsk, tsk, Seandtaylor, there you go investing again! Wear the socks over your ears. Same results.

Oh dear, another audiogon thread meanders hopelessly off topic ....

Here's another suggestion for an over-bright system.
1) Buy a CD walkman and some high-sensitivity headphones.
2) Listen to Metallica VERY LOUD for several months, for at least several hours every day. This will make your ears "break in".
3) Once your ears are "broken in" no system will ever sound harsh or sibilant ever again.

Bob-B, of course you don't wear them b/wards. Socks are more directional than cables even -- you know that :)

Seantaylor, LOL ;-)

right, unless worn backards

If you're inclined to spend lots of money I'm sure Nordost could make some audiophile socks. I used to think socks are just socks, but then I discovered cryogenically treated pure silver socks, and after a month of burn in the sound ...... etc etc.

Well this isn't the first time that I've confused between the two of us; probably not the last either...
So you chose the socks over mosfet's?
Oh man I've just gotta see this for myself; I'll be over tomorrow if not sooner ;-)
That's just gotta be cheaper than some of my tweaks; I only used a $500 set of Nordost titanium Pulsar points to help tame my digital - & that's not to mention the Zoethecus shelf, & mega$ cables - yikes!

Uh-oh... just to clarify things, my comment to "Bob" was aimed at "Rcrump" aka "Bob" regarding the story about the Wilson's that he later filled in. I hope that Bob Bundus did not take this the wrong way. I do agree that some softer sounding Mosfet stuff does work well with brighter speakers though, so i guess my comment could have gone both ways. I guess i need to watch my P's and Q's and clarify which "Bob" i'm talking to in the future. At least this time, no harm was done : ) Sean
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Can I just make a request that they be red socks until after we have retained the Americas Cup?

My partner, John Curl, has Watt 1s and the tweeter is hot as the devil so he hung socks in front of the tweeters when using his digital source....Point is the speakers need to go rather than the amp and maybe the old sock trick will get you down the road until the new speakers arrive.....

There's no better teacher than experience now is there Sean?

Hahahaha.... Nice suggestion Bob. Sounds like the solution that someone else that you know chose : ) Sean
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Hang an old sock in front of the tweeters and keep the amp you have.....

Speakers that tend toward the bright side can sound very good when driven with a mosfet amp via MIT speaker cabling. Try Accuphase, Ayre Acoustics, Perreaux, Classe, Conrad Johnson

I agree with Subaruguru -- throw some blankets and draperies around the room and see if it helps. If it does, go for some room treatments. Best spots (without knowing the specifics) -- behind the speakers (especially the corners), in front of the speakers on the floor (not too close to the speakers), on the side walls between you and the speakers and centered on the wall behind you.

Also, cables can make a huge difference as Sean and others suggest (nice offer Sean!). Speaker cables may help a great deal (MIT come to mind -- see earlier threads on dark speaker cables). As others suggest, it's tough to jump to conclusions about the source of the issue without active experimentation. Good luck.

If the speakers are the offenders why are you not considering changing speakers ? I'm not being impertinent, I'm just curious as to your reasoning.

Room treatment!

The new SA102 from Plinius is worth a try. An excellent amp, but Peter Thompson voices them with Shahinian speakers - and so they tend to work best with metal dome tweeters and need quite 'open' sounding cables. But if you get the balance right the naturalness of the sound, dynamics and inner detail are simply superb. The SA102 is more like half a SA250 MkIV than the SA100 MKIII it replaces. Dryer than tubes, but otherwise very similarly lush and full with a dose of added magic.

I would try McIntosh. There were other good suggestions here too but felt Mc had to be added. I got rid of the Krell KSA100 for the same reason and ended up with McIntosh as my favorite.

Aragon 8008 BB

Electrocompaniet?

This is what I did. Cal Labs CLD-10 > EVS Millennium DAC II > Odyssey Tempest Preamp > Odyssey Stratos Monoblocks > Infinity Kappa 9's. I/C's and speaker wire are Groneburg Quatro Ref. Digital cable is Bolder Cable w/Eichmann bullet plug. This setup does not sound bright at all. It sounds very natural and dynamic. My Kappa 9's have never sounded better.

Mfb33, drop me an email. I'd like to send you a pair of interconnects to try out and see what you think. Need to know some specifics though before throwing them in the mail. Sean
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Conrad Johnson MF 2200 or a BAT 3i preamp.

Mfb33,
If you DIY, Try a generic larger powercord preferably the type with overall metal braid before going the more expensive ways. Refinement type powercords can be pursued later after you know the size and geometry to look for.

Just come across this powercord phenomenon:
Without metal braiding - bright & airy, lightweight.
The SAME cable With metal braiding - darker, deeper stage, heavier.

Your result may vary slightly from mine, but its fun to DIY and understand your system first before buying the more expensive refined versions.

I am having the same problem with Kappa 6 Infinity's Tryed a few amps including Carver and Adcom now using a Mcintosh mc2200 sounds good but the best sounding (most dynamic) is a soundcraftsmen type H amplifier, The only problem is the amp has been undependable and is in for repair again. The soundcraftsmen has a lot of attack and is very warm, some other amps sound steril with my Kappas. I have been told that type H amps are often used for sound reinforcement clubs djs and the alike. Also Denon cd players have a warm sounding dac I have found. Hope this helps-Guycom

You could build a zoebel network to roll off the highs. Costs a lot less than a amp. You can use different combinations of resistors and capacitors to tweak the roll off to your liking.

Try a Krell KSA-250 -- no kiddin'

Accurate speakers, amps, and preamps can sound bright if your cd source is poor and bright. Tailoring speakers and amps can get you into trouble if you ever change anything later.

The kappa line of speakers can be a little to bright with cd's. I would first try some cheap room-speaker tweaks to tame them down a little. What cd player are you using?. You might try a little felt strip on the sides or around the tweater area of the speakers. Is your room bright on the speaker end?

Are the speakers bright or is the amp bright ? Have you tried a different amp and gotten the same results ? Have you tried various cabling ? You really need to track down the source of the problem and correct it, not band-aid it by changing other things. Sean
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