I owned them back in the late 70's. Very enjoyable. I'll share a story about them. The manager of the "very" high end store that sold them, and other top speakers at that time, told me the condutor of the San Diego Symphony was coming in to buy some speakers. I was there and watched, (listened), as he demoed about 7 pairs at about 3 minutes each. After about 20 minutes he said, "the DM-6's are the ones", paid and walked out. Soon after, I did the same and had them for about 10 years. Just a gut feeling here, but if you do decide to replace them, give the smaller Maggie models a listen. Thanks for bringing back some fond memories and good luck.
I currently own a pair of thses and I think they are just great. I definitely wont be changing these for some time. My pair however are not the stock B&W DM6's, but have been modified.
The crossover was modded by Tom Lewitt - he builds valve/trnsistor hydrib amps here in New Zealand which are extremely good, but dont have the international market. A friend of mine is runniing 2 pairs of lewitt monos (125watt pair and 250 watt pair) driving a pair of Sonus Faber Extrema's. His souuces consist of Well Tempered / Van Den Hul MC1 special and the Marantz CD7. I think that if the amps are still there in his setup, they must be doing pretty good to partner up with that gear.
The modded cross-overs allow me for triamping. I think its all a speaker needs to be really. At current I am running 100watt EAR509 mkII's monos for the bass, and cary300bsei monos for the tweet/mid. This combo sonds really nice in my opinion and I feel suits me well.
Apparently, the DM6 was the first model that B&W made to have the Kevlar mid. At that time, this speaker was the top in their line, and had the most strict manufacturing standards, just like their model Nautilus today. They were used as monitors and were supercended by the Nautilus801 model.
Just giving my opinon :). Thanks
I have a pair that I've owned since 1978-79. The only things I'd swap 'em for would be a pair of 'stats. But they'd have difficulty getting admitted to a room that others use.
Once I tried an electronic x-over and a set of subs I built from JBL 15-inchers with them (-3dB @ 16Hz), thinking that they needed help at the bottom end. They didn't need help.
I have had a pair of these since 1978. A friend of my mothers was importing them from england (of course) and I actually picked them up from the airport. I have had them ever since and they have been my main speakers untill 3 months ago when I bought a set of B&W 804 S's.
I am a sound engineer, and have listened to more reference speakers, in recording studios and in masetering studios. I grew up with the pregnent penguins and I really cannot tell if somethig is recorded right untill I reference them on the DM6's.
Anyway, I have the 804's now and I have the DM6's sitting next to them, not being used. The 804 are much clearer and do not colour the sound like the DM6's, but the 804's do not have the same punch and fullness, especially in the bass, the the DM6's.
I have grown so accustomed to the DM6's, and I truly believe that they sound as good as the day i bought them, that I am going to get another amp and still use them with or as an second reference set because as I have said, I am so used to hearing what things really sound like on the DM6's.
I would like to be able to bi-amp them so if there is anyone with suggestions on how to do that, please send your opinions.
The DM6's are simply wonderfull. ANd considering that you can get them for under $400, I am always looking for another set just so I can have spare parts because I am going to be baried with these.
I have a pair that I purchased second hand about 10 yrs ago, I have greatly improved their performance by replacing the crossover capacitors and internal wiring, in fact the improvement was remarkable. Capacitance changes and leakage increases over time as the dialectric deteriorates effecting filter Q - the original design is sound, do not attempt to replace the ferite
cored inductors. We have a full electronic lab and were able to quantify results with before and after measurements - the results obtained will more than justify the expense and effort involved. Use only highest quality non polarised audio quality caps, non polarised electrolytics are definitely not in that category.
Good luck with the mods.
I'm italian, so I'm sorry for my english. Tomorrow I have four B&W dm6. I have listen music from dm6 until 1980. I go every year to Milano for TOP AUDIO. I have never listen music like my dm6.
I owned a pair in the seventies, after having DM2s and DM4s. The "pregnant penguins" were excellent speakers at the time; the bass was a bit tubby but the rest of the range was state of the art.
I just got a pair of these on ebay, they do sound fuller than my matrix 1's, buy the kevlar mid only has a concave rubber cone - not a convex one. I know these need to be repaired but in the mean time can anyone suggest a good repairer in sydney (i am going to use len wallis audio) and any idea how much this shoul;d cost ?? thanks.
do you know where i could get manuals or pdf file for these thanks
Here is all DM Series
manuals for you.
can anyone email me a photo of their midrange kevlar dm6 driver and sharpman get me your email and i will copy you the original dm6 manual and tickertape of freq range.
send to firstname.lastname@example.org
I have had a pair for about 15 years and I have modified them quite extensively with rewire, bipassing the fuses etc and new capaciters. I have kept the original drivers. Removing about half of the internal wadding helped also. They are suberb speakers and when positooned correctly and driven by high powererd quality amplification they can be quite suberb. I currently drive them with 150watt Krells. In terms of absolute control and tranparency they may not be up there the very best but they seem very neutral and the truth is that I can't bear to replace them. Whernever I have had any work done to them by HI-FI stors the feedback is that these people are are stunned at the sound. They need to be raised slightly and set on solid bases I use concrete slabs.
I've now got mine on massive solid oak plinths with brass spikes. Really clears everything up and tightens the bass. Have also removed half of the internal wadding like glen did. I find that these speakers need a very high toe-in angle to sound good. Just my ears and my 2 cents. Regards, David.
mine dm6 is suberb,the close box is fenomenal, changed the internal wiring and capacitors ,spikes in the supports (8mm) for better stability, think that the height of the supports is the best, higher I lose in the highs, in some comparisons with 802 matrix and 801 series 80, only change for the 801, the mids of the 802 are better, but it loses for bass, and the dm6 are more linear and easy to drive, in relation to the new models top of the line, really touches more high but it does not have the same soul and bass reflex always finishes for compromising. well, we can always blame the room :)
Changing internal wiring and capacitors is obligatory, or then it is the same that to buy an old car and not making the revision and not changing of tyres... you think they sound good original,you only knows half of the value.
I have owned a pair since 1978, bought new. I have people come over to the house and are extremely impressed with the sound. During the first year a woofer went bad but B&W promptly replaced it. I do have older speakers but not of the quality of these. Only people who know how to listen and have heard 801's put down my 6's. I will never sell them.
i replace the damping in the mids with Visaton lamb wool, and got very good results. I dind't change the woofer damping. I also replace the feets with ones similar to the ATC , for me one off the best results. The low frequencies became must better, resulting in mutch better image, the mids became mor real, without the interference of the low frequencies, that became not as loose as they use to be, they lost the belly:) I also replace the caps (MKT) and the wires with DNM reason cables. The bidding post as weel.
This changes were made not a the same time, so you only should bipass in the end, all this changes transform the sound in many ways. Good luck