I don't think it is the crossover. You may have damaged the midranges along with the tweeters! What amp were you using? B&W's are pretty robust so you must have been really cranking them!
10 responses Add your response
I am using two T+A A1530 Amps with output of 500W at 8 ohms in mono mode using Transparent speaker wires. I was cranking up the volume pretty loud LOL and I shall pay the price now.
I ordered two midrange and swapped them and did not see any difference. Service technician thinks it is the crossover and says most likely the sound coil (I think that's what he said). I have two HF/MF crossover on order along with the diamond tweeter domes for both speakers. Service person says it will take them 2-3 hours to change the dome. Last time the tweeter dome was changed it was just plugs and play so not sure if I am missing a step.
Is there soldering involved in swapping the crossovers? I have soldering iron and know a little about soldering. Would have been nice to have the instructions on how to swap the crossovers.
I am thinking change the crossovers and then replace the tweeters before powering them up. Any suggestions is appreciated. Thanks again guys
Check crossovers for sure, probably a burnt coil, or cap.
The memories you gave me with this message.....ouch.
I totally feel it.
Repair, and get back on track, and remember, “booze does enable a little more volume” fight the impulse !, :)
best of luck on the repair, and getting back to rocking out.
p.s. Your speakers are simply amazing!
Thanks Arc. Yes, booz does it. Will replace the crossover and the tweeters but I am pretty sure one of the Amps has problem as well and possibly cause of some of these issues. Amp tripping could cause the tweeters to blow. no?
I have an old $600 pair of speakers in working condition so I decided to check and make sure the Amp's are OK. What I found out is the right Amp that has blown 3 tweeters previously gets extra hot at volume level set around 10 o'clock mark and keeps the Amp in cooling mode with no sound until it cools off. This maybe the cause of some of the 4 blow up tweeters on the right channel. The other Amp is nice and cool and fans are not working as hard as the right channel. What could cause one Amp to get hot and shut off but not the other? The left channel so far has blown only one tweeter vs the right channel 4 tweeters. Getting closer!!!!
onhwy, 5 tweeters so far, I have 2 more domes on order and will be ordering 2 more just incase. They have 4 week lead time now.
Stop using your speakers until the tweets arrive.
If you remove a driver from the crossover or short it it has very weird effects on the impedance curve which could be amp damaging or blow a crossover component. I know this is weird, but I’ve done this a few times in simulations
Just leave the speakers off until repaired.
Thanks Erik. That is exactly what my Audio expert said and I have stopped using the speakers until the tweeters arrive. What I am concerned with is that the crossover is already damaged and will blow up the new tweeters. How to tell if the crossover is damaged? Take a chance and plug the tweeters and leave the crossover alone? Thanks
Update: Ordered 2 tweeters (2 midrange, 2 crossovers, 1 bass, resistors for crossovers fixes, etc... for spares) on Feb 17th and it arrived a week ago. Yes, 6.5 months for spare parts now. I have sound on both tweeters but can barely hear the midrange. I measured resistance on the midrange and it reads 3 ohms. My brand new midrange driver also reads 3 ohm. Am I going deaf? I am only cranking it up around 40%. Hate to blow them in day 1. I put my ears next to midrange & there is hardly any sound. Saga continues.