Aurios under JC1 monoblock's?


My JC1's sit on 1/2" thick glass (can be seen in system pics). I know glass is not the ideal shelf for audio, but I love this rack and don't want to part with it. My question is...
Would my system benefit by putting Aurios Pro's under the amp's? Or would it just be a waste of money. Of course, if I had a couple of spare sets of Aurios laying around, I would just try it, but I don't.
perfectionist

Showing 4 responses by clio09

A much less expensive solution that worked for me under my 65 lb. solid state amp was the use of 2" x 2" x 1" cork squares (4 of them). These are the ones where the cork is sandwiched between two pices of rubber. They are available from HVAC parts suppliers as they are used under heavy heating and AC equipment to drain vibrations. They run about $1.50 apiece. If you want to pay more you can get them through Mapleshade (I think they call them Isoblocks).
Essentialaudio makes some good points. However, tweaking is not an exact science. If it were we'd all know what to do for our individual system set-ups based on simple formulas. It's really easy to go out and spend hundreds of dollars in tweaks that after experimentation, result in your sound ending up right back where you started. Tweaking is a form of tuning. Trying to compensate for inefficiecies in our set-up or room to get the most from our gear. In other words we are voicing our system to it's surroundings. Much like a musician would voice an instrument to a room that it is played in.

Unfortunately, because of some preferences/limitations of your set-up, only you can voice your gear to it's surroundings, unless of course an audiophile who lives near you can provide assistance. It's really time to hunker down and try some of these suggestions and see what works for you and what doesn't. Many vendors provide 30 day trials so all you have to lose is shipping costs and your time. I myself have found the rubber/cork sandwiches very useful contrary to Essentialaudio's statement, but that doesn't mean his statement is false.

However, just to show you how far I have taken this science (and my methods have certainly not achieved perfection - but I'm happy with the results), I use a 2" thick maple amp stand with 3" brass cones, suspension rack (pAarticular Triangle), Still Points, Sound Anchor speaker stands (with Herbie's black dots), Herbie's Halos, and HRS damping plates. I've also addressed echo and first reflection point issues in my room with Golden Sound Acoustic Discs and some home made diffusors.

So, keep the glass and try some of the devices mentioned and see where it goes. BTW - Granite Audio just came out with some Cat Paws which look promising. Might be worth a try. If by some coincidence you're in the SoCal area I'd be glad to lend a hand and an ear.
Perfectionist - the rubber pieces may actually be an interesting discovery for you. One thing about rubber though from what I have learned, is that the durometer rating could play a factor. Products like sorbothane or the rubber-based dampening products you can find at McMaster-Carr work differently based on durometer rating and the load placed on them. I recently had a friend test the rubberized material used in the HRS damping plates and he found it to have a durometer rating of 40. So he sent me some plain old rubber squares with the same rating to see how it might work on various components (top covers and underneath). I'm in the process of trying them out now so we'll see what happens.
Tvad - I'm not sure if this is going to take you where you need to go, but:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

If it is not a direct link, then type in "carbide balls" (sans parentheses) in the search box. When the navigation tree pops up on the left select Tungsten Carbide Balls, then Precision Grade 25..., then you size.