what preamp are you using? I've had good success tweaking tubes on my preamp to dial in that perfect tone.
Aurender's "Sound"
Just picked up an Aurender N100H. Great unit. However it's a bit on the warm and dark side, which doesn't sit well with my Pass class A amp. It's like a double whammy of warmth. Great for vocals, but hard to rock out on. But I like the unit and am trying to keep it.
Would love it if I could find a simple way to address this, like with a different USB cable to lighten things up a bit.
If it comes to it, I might give up the Pass for something more neutral, as nice as this amp is it's not the best for music on the more lively side, or rock. (My tastes and opinions.) Even considering a class D amp like Nord, which is pretty much dead neutral which could peel back some of that warmth and darkness.
So is this a digital question, amp question or cable question? Yes to all.
Has anybody else encountered this double whammy of warmth, and what was the fix. Thanks all.
Would love it if I could find a simple way to address this, like with a different USB cable to lighten things up a bit.
If it comes to it, I might give up the Pass for something more neutral, as nice as this amp is it's not the best for music on the more lively side, or rock. (My tastes and opinions.) Even considering a class D amp like Nord, which is pretty much dead neutral which could peel back some of that warmth and darkness.
So is this a digital question, amp question or cable question? Yes to all.
Has anybody else encountered this double whammy of warmth, and what was the fix. Thanks all.
25 responses Add your response
Interesting... I went the other way. After upgrading to Spendor D9 speakers I found that some recordings sounded a tad bright and cold. Using a Linn DSM with a Pass Labs XP-20 pre and a 250 watt Bryston. Prior to that combo I had Rega gear in the mix. I replaced the Bryston with a Pass Labs XA30.8 which now seems to work much better with this system. Some of that bright shine is gone, I now enjoy playing music for hours without reaching for the volume control... |
I’ve had a ‘double whammy’ of warmth before. Having a Vinnie Rossi L2 DHT preamp and tried a Terminator DAC with it. To warm and no life to the sound. It’s rough having warmth at the source, that’s a hard one to fix down stream, as that warmth (which can also be some missing information) is in the signal and not just from cables or warmth at the amp (that IMO can be dealt with some upstream)... Sorry I don’t have a suggestion. |
I appreciate the responses folks. A bit more info. The Aurender replaces a high quality home-built server with all sorts of internal "audiophile" parts, linear power supplies etc and ran JRiver, AO and Fidelizer. No other changes. I would characterize its sound as neutral. The DAC is an Auralic Vega which is pretty neutral as well. It has 4 filters. I just played with those but not much difference. Cabling is from different sources but all are in the $300-$700 range not counting the Audience speaker cables. Most of the cabling is fairly neutral as well. Aurender recommends 100-150 hours break in. I'm at less than 50 but I don't think the entire character of the Aurender will change during break in. But we'll see. The amp is on the bottom shelf of a non-"audiophile" rack, in fact its a wide Sanus unit meant more for a home theatre. So, MDF shelves most likely. When I got this amp I plunked it on the shelf and there it has been sitting for 5 years. Now I'm wondering if the amp's placement and the lack of isolation devices has been contributing to the somewhat warmer/darker sound Pass is known for, and adding a new device with similar sound qualities just exacerbates that sound. I don't have much in the way of isolation stuff- Black Diamond cones, Golden Sound DH cones and squares, various Herbie's junk. Not sure if any of these might help tighten up the amp sound. Short of other ideas I'll let the Aurender break in and go from there. I would consider swapping in a more neutral amp as well if the isolation doesn't help. |
I have an Aurender N100H and a Pass Labs XA-25 using a LTA Microzotl Pre-Amp. The USB cable does make a difference on this unit and I found that the Curious Cable Evolved works very well. I do not find the sound warm at all. My DAC is a Chord Qutest. A good powercord to the Aurender does make a good difference as well. |
Quote "Don't get your drawers bunched up" https://upscaleaudio.com/products/russian-6h30pi?variant=21829851333 |
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I ran my Aurender X100L into a Berkley Alpha USB using an Analysis Plus Purple Plus USB and from the Berkley Alpha XLR digital out
using a Kimber AGDL
into my PS Audio Direct Stream DAC to my Pass x2.5 Pre using Kiimber Hero XLRs to my Pass X250.5 Amp and the music (HDD, Qubuz, Tidal ) became incredibly excellent. ( I played with several USB connects before settling on the Analysis Plus Purple Plus . The Oyaide Neo d+ Purple was right there also for good clean tight rock & roll. ) Keep the Pass Amp ! Happy Listening... |
I run the Aurender N100H, along with Pass XA60.5's, XP-20, DEQX PreMate, Harbeth SHL5+'s and a PS Audio DirectStream for a DAC. I ended up selling the XP-20, and I go direct from the N100 to my DAC. It sounds organic and neutral, to me. It's "lively" enough, but not forward leaning in any one category. I tend to lean towards a warmer/neutral sound. I use a DH Labs Mirage for a USB, Audioquest interconnects and speaker cables. For power I use Shunyata cabling, along with a Nordost QX4 and QB8. FWIW, ultimately, I believe you've got to get the unit burnt in and go from there. |
@jaybe What speakers? What model Pass amp? I had an Aurender N-10 for a bit; I really liked it and preferred the COAX connection to my DAC at that time; I found it be very neutral and organic, perhaps a tad soft. I think I understand your original dilemma; I would have kept it and experimented with different cables, as it was a gorgeous machine inside and out, but I ultimately missed Roon too much; Pass amps will basically take on the character of your other stuff in the system. I have found significant "warming" for instance with Wire World power cables and especially an Audience PC (did not like that); Cables can make or break your synergy; I have learned this lesson a few different times. Pass amps are pretty amazing and tough to "beat"; you can definitely get a different signature but again its probably much easier to change a cable here or there; If you are using Audience cables on Pass try taking that off and use the original IEC cable Pass came with-- you might be surprised. One more thing: when is the last time you cleaned/polished the contacts of speaker cable connections, and others (interconnects)? I found a very effective improvement by using Zu Audio cleaning products and even made the 12AWG copper all shiny again on the AC Romex ends connected to the receptacle. I was shocked by how much black-ish crud came off the exposed copper. restores top end shimmer significantly if you are finding any dullness. Consider doing it, you might be in for a real surprise. :) Don't toss that Pass yet! |
ATC speakers, neutral and revealing as can be. I regularly use Caig Deoxit products. Isolation devices helped out a bit and have better ones on order. Got some USB cables on the way as well. After about 125 hours either the server is changing for the better, or I am. Or both. It's getting interesting. |
@erik_squires I've been thinking about the whole upsampling thing. Native, bit perfect is far superior if you have a quality DAC. I think you will start seeing upsampling disappearing from products over the next few years. No one will want it while DACs improve. |
Your (and others) thoughts about Cables is spot on. Used cables are be a bargain if you know what you want. I have a synergistic research active usb cable. You can tune it a little but SR has a 30-day return policy so you can determine if it does anything at all. Send it back if not Also changing the ICs could give you what your looking for. The cable company has free demos and tons of used options at every price point. |
