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Where is your data that shows this "1%" variance? Seems odd that these audiophile fuses require you to go up a size just so they won’t blow (even odder still when they are touted as 1% tolerance!).
Those "standard cheap steel" fuses do not exist as fuse elements are not steel. Besides, take a look at the data sheets of Littelfuse, for example, and tell me where I can find the same for the boutique brands. Also, if standard fuses have a 15% out of tolerance, then how can Littelfuse make fuses with 4 ratings between 1 and 1.5 amps? (1.00, 1.20, 1.25, 1.50).
I’ll never argue about what you do or do not hear, but don’t throw the technical stuff at me as justification. Going up a fuse size because you want to save your $100 fuse investment puts at risk your many times more expensive equipment. What is protecting what?
As usual a lot of ignorant statements .a lot of critics with nothing to
say but negatives .unless you have personally put these fuses in your system
and give them at least 100 hours then don't comment for you are speaking out of ignorance .and with some I have found the fuses are to pricy for their $500
receivers .and a lot of exotic metals first get their start through high tech agencies like military or NASA to answer some of the skeptics.
if you took the time and looked up metal index on resistance copper or silver has
7 times less resistance then the cheap steel fuses ,resistance is a bottleneck
that is why each fuse makes the system that much better.
"Why are you attacking people over a fuse?"
You post as if you are not intimately familiar with the viscous personal attacks by ptss and georgelofi on the other SR fuse thread while you stood on the periphery prodding them along.
I knew that this thread was ill advised from the beginning (second post) and now audioman is finding out why.
"Wait a minute, a fuse is SUPPOSED to be a resistor, that’s how it functions."
Really? Then how come the whole goal of high end fuses like SR and HiFi Tuning and Audio Magic, etc. is to increase the CONDUCTIVITY of their fuses by using pure metals and cryogenic treatment. Thus, LESS resistance will be measured across aftermarket fuses compared to stock fuses. Electrical CONDUCTIVITY is the reciprocal of electrical RESISTIVITY, Hel-loo!
"And where in the world did anyone get the fantastic impression that the audio signal propogated (sic) through the fuse?"
Well, for one thing from the fact speaker fuses are mounted right where the audio signal enters the speaker. My Fultons had one fuse per section.
"If you want to hear a difference/improvement call it what you will, BY GOLLY YOU WILL HEAR IT!"
Most likely for fuse skeptics the rule is, "If you are psyched out by fuses or aren’t sure what to listen for or believe fuses are a scam BY GOLLY YOU WONT HEAR IT!
"Those were in self defense perhaps which is different."
audioman probably felt the same way above following your post: "That might be fake news previously known as made up stuff."
If you are speaking only for your reactions in the other thread, then fair enough. In no way can this be attributed to the others. They inserted themselves into that thread with the sole intent of ridicule and mayhem.
If folks stop posting here about their positive experiences due to fear of personal attack, this forum will serve little purpose IMO.
well in my defense I did not attack the poster rather challenged what was asserted which was not personal opinion all are entitled to but specific metrics cited. There is a lot of made up stuff presented as fact that goes around confusing people. Some seem to make a career of it with no remorse. Its important to challenge questionable assertions.
FWIW I have never seen a +/- tolerance specified by any manufacturer of any fuse for either current rating or melting point. What is generally specified by Littelfuse and Eaton/Cooper-Bussman for their fuses, in addition to the nominal current rating, nominal melting point, and various other specs, are the minimum and maximum opening times for various percent overloads relative to rated current. For example, the minimum and maximum possible opening times when the current being conducted is 200% or 400% or various other percentages of the current rating of the fuse. Those tolerances (the differences between min and max) are usually fairly wide. I have never seen that kind of specification for any audiophile-oriented fuses, however.
You know, I’m game for an experiment and I just moved and am setting up the new listening room, so, when the dust settles I think I will try a couple of these and report back. Look I do know cables make a difference and tubes do too so, what the heck, I’ll give it the old college try. There, is that fair? After all, it’s only wire.
Re fuse tolerances, from somewhere in cyberspace:
www.revolutionpower.com › hifi-tuning-...
HiFi-Tuning Small Supreme Audiophile Fuse slow-blow T. ... HiFi-Tuning fuses have a tighter tolerance than standard fuses. A standard fuse typically has a 10% of stated value tolerance.
Tolerance, a 6Amp HiFi Tuning Fuse will pop at any amperage above 6Amp. Therefore, some HiFi Tuning Fuses will pop instantantaneously upon insertion. To avoid...
Fuse type for the Magneplanar 1.7i and who's tried Synergistic or ...
I had Hi Fi Tuning Supreme silver/gold fuses in my DAC and amplifier, and then I had a chance ... My own testing indicates that these fuses actually have a tighter tolerance than a....
I mentioned earlier that the Black fuse sounded slightly more natural than the stock fuse. Trouble is that it failed after about two weeks. Must have been an incorrectly labeled fuse because defective fuses are very rare. I'll ask Synergistic about this and try to get a replacement.
Also, this fuse does not have the values imprinted on the end caps, like most fuses have.
Maybe tear off the black label and see if it's marked there ?
FWIW, I tried 2 SR fuses on my Aurender. I wanted them to be better but there was no increase in SQ to my ears so I returned them.
If there was no difference in SQ most likely you inserted the SR fuses in the wrong direction and the previous fuses were also in the wrong direction. Another possibility is that there's a mistake somewhere in your system that prevents fuse differences from being heard.
Huh... So just because I didn't hear a difference, there had to be a mistake with MY system? I'm not new at this hobby and that's a pretty arrogant assumption.
FYI, I tried many different orientations with the fuses and Aurender, for the most part agreed with my findings. Maybe I should've told em they put the fuses in the wrong direction.
Here is a simple explanation , just look up resistance index in metals .
Silver vs the buzz fuse steel zinc.
The top fuses have ceramic instead of glass far lower micro vibration
End caps are solid silver .Better then 7x less resistance then Steel. Meaning
Resistance of this amount us a Huge bottle neck creating low level distortions
With top fuses after about a 75-100 hour runin you get full benefits.
Better separation if instruments, tighter imaging, and better low lever detail.
Think of a 1 inch pipe vs a 1/8th inch pipe .the electrons flow much more at ease
And these are the results. One thing to mention. The rest of your system needs
To be addressed quality Audiophile power cords ,interconnects, and dpeaker cables, not monster Cable or blue jeans those are basic cables.
Engineers are the very worst .I cannot tell you how many say a power cord is a power cord, or capacitors or resistors all dound the same ,breakin is in your mind.
I have spent years molding and listenjng and documenting changes well over 15,000 hours literally. Owning a aufio store until 06 I had plenty of time and having a technician a lot of upgrades . Keep an open mind One more thing the Best
For your contacts and last for years is Stabilant-22 .I have tried them all
$55 a bottle .clean everyyhjng including power cords first with high purity Alcohol.
Everyyhjng that has metal clean it ,and coat all surfaces Thin coat. Fuse holder