I would pull the tweeter out and see if it works by itself. If it does, the problem is elsewhere.
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First off, you have the series 2 speakers. The series 1 did not have the internal fuses.
Try swapping the tweeter with the other speaker's tweeter. The problem may be in the crossover circuit board, but could be in the tweeter. If you find the tweeter is indeed bad, you can get it fixed by contacting Richard So at email@example.com. He can fix yours or sell you a new one. Good guy to deal with.
Lastly, you have a great speaker. I have both the 1290/2 and 1590/2 and wouldn't part with them for anything!
Since I am not much of a speaker tech, and interested in following this advice, can you or anyone tell me or direct me to any written procedure to remove the tweeters?
I will assume that I would remove the screws and pull the tweeter forward, out. Do the internal tweeter wires need to be cut or is there a blade connector of some type? If no connect exists and wires must be cut, what is the best way to reconnect?
Also, before removing, would it make any sense to use a VOM to test continuity from the speaker terminals to the tweeter?
I really appreciate everyones assistance.
The tweeters are easy to remove, and you are right you do have to remove the screws. Be VERY careful when removing NOT to tear up the gasket behind the speaker. Also, pry it off witha knife blade or small scredriver, but put something on the wood where you are prying so as not to damage the wood surface. Tweeter/midrange aren't bad, woofers are tougher.
Once removed, there are plug-in connections, so you do not have to cut wires.
I'm not too electrically minded, so I don't know if continuity is what you need to do. Myself, as I said earlier, I would just swap the tweeter on your other speaker.
Let me know what you find out as to the cause of your problem.
It looks like I will be swapping tweeters. My speaker ismodel 1290/2 SN#16214
I found some other postings on the web where someone actually has a ADS parts list scanned and uploaded from 1992.
The 1290/2 tweeters are part number 206-0117. Interestingly the L990 (which I own), L880/1 and /2, L780/1 and /2 all use this same tweeter. I don't want to cannibalize my L990s...maybe I can find a set of these other speakers and use them for parts?
I will attempt to remove the tweeter tomorrow and I am hoping it will be something as simple as a loose wire (yes, unlikely, I know).
I don't know a thing about the VOM. This was a suggestion I received from another kind soul, so i may hit Radio Shack after all the black friday chaos and see what they say.
Thanks for the advice on removing the speaker. i am going to buy a new putty knife to protech the wood should I have to pry the tweeter out. I alsohave the cap/cover for the midrange so i can protect that as well.
Happy Thanksgiving to you all!
Tilt the speaker forward with the help of a friend
-undo and remove all the tweeter screws except the one on top
-slowly unscrew the top bolt
-in 90% of the cases, the tweeter will fall forward and stay in place, hanging by the bolt. Hold the tweeter with one hand while slowly unscrewing the last bolt.
Avoid any contact with the tweeter dome.
-Mark the positive and negative terminals with a laundry marker pen before removing the wires
After considering how long I have been searching for new ADS speakers, performing tweeter "surgery" tonight was a bit nerve-racking.
Thanks to all that offered advice. I have removed and tested the speakers with a brand new Multimeter I picked up from sears this weekend.
Casouza-Thanks for the help. Oddly, I could barely get the tweeter to separate from the rubber seal. It seems that 25 years had adhered the tweeter in place. It took about 15 minutes as i didn't want to mar the wood finish of the cabinet or tweeter itself. What worked was using some smaller needle-nose pliers with one tip inside the bolt hole and the other on the curved surface near the start of the midrange. At this place, there was room for the nose of the plier to grab hold of the edge without marring the wood edges. For those of you that own these speakers, you know that there is no space between the routered edge of the wood cabinet and the edge of the tweeter/midrange.
Sid42-Thanks for all your suggestions. I found another website that said to use a Multimeter which would test the resistance in ohms between the red and black speaker terminals once the speaker had been removed.
The bad news is that the tweeter showed 0.0L on the multimeter. I placed the test probes on the tweeter speaker connections and they measured about 1 to 2 Ohms so I think the tester is working.
I have been looking on the web to find a replacement tweeter. I have read that a gentlemen named Richard, last name and email address unknown is the "go to guy" for repairing ADS speakers. If anyone knows if this fellow is still in this business, please let us know.
Also I read that a company call Regnar may also repair ADS speakers.
I has also seen two other options. I missed a recent Ebay auction where it appears that NAD at one time made a replacement for this tweeter. Also a company in Wisconsin sells a replacement tweeter MT-4115-8. Anyone know if this option is worth the effort?
1" High End Silk Dome Tweeter
Cast aluminum plate
Great Replacement for Polk Audio, ADS and Peerless.
50 Watts RMS
80mm x 115mm(3.15" x 4.53") Flange
70mm (2.76") cutout
Again, thanks for your assistance. At this point i am looking at several options and appreciate your assistance.
Check my response to you on the 25th, and I gave you the info on Richard So and his e-mail address. When ADS went out of business a few years ago, he bought all their inventory and does ADS speaker repair. He also has some new items. Yes, he is still in business.
Your tweeter is a 3/4" tweeter with internal protection, so I would stay with that. Glad everything worked ok for you.
I just picked up a pair of minty L1290's (series 1) according to this thread and I just think they are wonderful. I however cannot find the owners manual. I would appreciate if anyone with information on how I can get even a copy or pdf version of it would get in touch.