Anybody here terminate DH Labs BL-1 cable?
I’ve experimented extensively with the"floating shield" architecture that Erik describes, also using the BL1 and agree, but with one little modification, if the source does not have a ground pin on the power cable, I attach the end connecting neutral + shield + drain, to the component in the "chain" that has a ground pin on the power plug. Components that have no ground pin cannot remove the noise from the interconnect effectively and it is passed onto the next component in the chain. In the event neither component has a ground pin on the power cable, grounding the case(s) reduce noise levels. All my IC's use this architecture Regards |
For components that do not have a ground pin the following approach can be used 1. using the continuity test option on a multi-meter, determine if the neutral side of the RCA socket is connected to the case 2. if the RCA neutral is "grounded" to the case, then simply run a single wire from the case to a mains ground point and then connect the interconnect cable as erik stated 3. if the RCA neutral is not connected to the case - the only option is to connect the end of the interconnect with ground and neutral joined to the next component in the chain - hopefully that component will have a ground pin on its power cable. With a floating shield architecture, it is always better to have a grounded source, that way connecting the interconnect as erik stated, i.e. to the source component, ensures that any "induced noise" in the shield is not transferred to the next component in the chain. Grounding those components that do not have a ground pin ensures the quietest possible operation of your system - if done right I've tried this many times and it works very well - but you can't blindly ground everything - the neutral side of the RCA socket on the component must have an electrical connection to the case/chassis for the interconnects to work properly Not sure of that clarified things or not :-) |
Since itsikhefez and Erik_Squires both appear to be quite comfortable with DIY projects, I thought I’d share the links to the interconnect and power cables that I now use throughout my system. http://image99.net/blog/files/4127b5fe2694586e383104364360373b-74.html http://image99.net/blog/files/be8de0c383c5434907610d6b55049e69-75.html They outperform some high priced commercial products (exceeding $2k) from some very big names that I have also tried in my system. With the IC’s, I have experimented with many permutations of conductor type and RCA plugs over the past few years, from inexpensive CAT6 conductors for all conductors, to the more pricey conductors used in the articles, which I found outperformed all other combinations. The one constant in later iterations of their design were the KLE Innovations RCA plugs. I would recommend starting with the Silver Harmony as a minimum starting point. The price for the hardware recommended in the article is around $300 for a one meter pair. They can also work extremely well as Digital interconnects and with the added benefit that the Copper harmony can be used without any loss in SQ. I also use the Absolute harmony on my turntable leads because they convey exquisitely fine details no other RCA that I have tried can compete with. The power cables take a little more effort, but a 5ft cable is priced somewhere between $100 (using DH Labs Power Plus bulk cable) and $200 (using Furutech 10 gauge Cable) for the live conductor and the IEC/Mains connectors specified One thing all these cables require is sufficient burn in... - Power Cables - at least 60 hours before they start to sound their best - Interconnects - They start off sounding very good, but then SQ degrades a little from 35-55 hours, but then start to really shine around the 80 hour mark and just keep getting better after that. The one drawback with these Interconnects - they resolve to extremely fine levels of detail and although you will notice a difference from installing just one set of cables between two components like a DAC and an integrated amp, but if your system has a pre-amp + power amp you would have to install a set between these two components also in order to hear them at their very best. Net Result... - a much deeper and more controlled bass performance - unsurpassed clarity across the entire frequency range - extremely fast dynamics across the entire frequency range - a holographic image that dissolves the walls of your listening room - a color-free presentation with exquisitely natural timbres - extremely fine details that recreates the realism of the recording venue As for speaker cables - I use the KLE Innovations gZero6 model.- I have not yet tried building a helix version because I require a 10 ft pair and that gets a little tricky to build. I found these cables elevated the performance of my modest $14k (CDN) system, surpassing systems exceeding $50k, so as you might guess - I’m a pretty happy listener :-) One very surprising observation - my components run significantly cooler using these cables - strange, but true. Start with one pair and see where it takes you :-) Are there better cables out there? probably, but at what cost? Enjoy |
itsikhefez - Really? - using the BL-1 with the Furutech FP126 was one of my earlier cables also (LOL) The first RCA I used that was not of the "normal design" was the original Eichmann Silver bullet, which I added to a pair of Stager Silver Solids IC’s The Silver bullet was a significant step up performance wise from the RCA’s that came with the Stagers and I also found they were better than the Furutech FP-126 RCA’s. The Silver Bullet’s only drawback - the small pins were difficult to solder without melting the housing ONE TIP: when soldering wires to the pins of any plastic bodied RCA’s like the Harmony line... - if you have an old component with RCA’s or an RCA socket - plug the RCA into the socket to conduct excess heat away quickly, preventing the housing from melting So, I wrote a review on my blog about how good I found the Silver Bullet to be on the Stagers and was subsequently contacted by Keith Louie Eichmann, asking to review his new Copper Harmony compared to the Silver Bullets when mounted on the Stager’s. I found the Copper Harmony was noticeably better than the Silver Bullet. The rest is history :-) As you step up through the Harmony Product Line, you get improvements across the board each step of the way, but the cable has to be able to resolve to the same level. I found using solid silver signal conductors to provide the best result - but the neutral only needs to be made from a high quality copper conductor. For best results I found using 28 gauge solid silver for the signal and 20 gauge copper for the neutral conductors not only provided the best sound quality, but it made the cables more affordable I have toyed with the idea of using 32 gauge solid silver signal and 18 gauge copper neutral also, but figured it was time to focus on the music and let another DIY-er try that one ;-) The Harmony line proved to be much better than the Silver Bullet and the new design incorporated much larger pins to solder too. I tried using the BL/1 after a long period using the Van den Hul D102 III Hybrid cable. There was really not much difference and the BL/1 was more affordable. The BL/1 is pretty good, but the Stagers really improved SQ performance. I haven’t tried Mogami, because the BL/1 perfprmed so well. My move to the Stagers was promted more by their twisted pair geometry as opposed to the more standard "two conductors side by side", as in the BL-a and many other cables for that matter. Cable geometry (or architecure) plays a huge part in improving performance of any cable, as opposed to just using better quality copper or moving up to silver. As proof of that I made up a pair of IC’s in the helix geometry using CAT 6 throughout and they performed better than the Van den Hul D102 III and the BL/1 IC’s, both of whish use silver plated conductors It’s a slippery slope once you get bitten by the bug - but totally worth it Cheers |
itsikhefez - re: the mains connectors - I've tried a few of those as well and the Silver plated copper connectors from Sonar Quest provided exceptional performance. The silver plating is quite thick and I am yet to see the copper after many connections to the mains supply and to my components. The IEC connector clamps like a vice - so much so that I've found plugging it into an old component first helps make seating in it the working component a little easier when in the rack Most connectors use brass pins/clamps, which is not the best material for conducting electricity. I have also tried the gold plated copper from Sonar Quest and it is an extremely good "second choice", but the silver plated copper delivered the fastest dynamic response. Here's a link SILVER PLATED COPPER... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SONAR-QUEST-CRYO-Ag-Audio-Grade-Silver-plated-IEC-plug-US-main-plug-sonarquest-/181355696313?hash=item2a39a450b9:g:J~oAAOxyhXRTKcHi GOLD PLATED COPPER http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SONAR-QUEST-CRYO-Audio-Grade-Gold-plated-IEC-plug-US-main-plug-sonarquest-/18... If some readers consider the spiral helix architecture is a little too adventurous, braiding is another geometry I have tried, using the conductors from a piece of DH Labs Power Plus, Encore and even Furutech. Granted, you have to "butcher" the cable to remove the three internal conductors from the sleeve + shielding, but the results were significant. The acid test.... - I made up two power cables, one with Furutech and one with DH Labs bulk cable - I then removed the three conductors from a 12 gauge extension cables from Home depot and braided them. - all were terminated with the same mains/IEC connectors The braided home depot cables provided deeper bass, faster dynamic performance and larger image than both the stock DH labs and Furutech cables So I then butchered the Furutech and the DH Labs and braided the internal conductors - the results were extremely good and better than the Home Depot braided version But the best architecture of all is still the Power Helix! With braiding or the power helix architecture, you do not need to worry about a screen/shield, since the architecture actually rejects any RF that is present in a normal home audio environment. Recording studios may present more problems though. Sorry to go on, but this is all the stuff I've experienced over the past 4 years - so I'd like readers to get to benefit from it :-) Cheers |
Based on your experience, do you think that would be worthwhile with the BL-1?Re Let's put it this way - the Copper Harmony will allow the BL-1 to perform to it's fullest potential. They are also the easiest RCA's I've ever had to connect to a piece of wire. You can always transfer the Copper Harmony to a better cable at a later date. I've connected some of my Harmony RCA's to different cables several times. Regards... |
Todd - if you follow the parts identified on the site I think(hope) you will be pleasantly surprised - but allow the prescribed burn-in. The power cables aren't too bad at 60-80 hours, but the IC's take 300-400 hours before they sound their best - I have no idea why - perhaps the low voltages at play? What components are the power cables for? Do you have a good outlet in the wall? I like Pass and Seymour MRI grade outlets from Take Five audio - they clamp like a vice and are reasonably Here's what PC's I have on my gear so you can get an idea of my setup... - in the wall - Pass and Seymour MRI outlets - Power Helix 10 gauge from wall into a distribution box with Pass and Seymour - Power Helix 10 gauge from wall into a NAIM 5i mkII integrated - Power helix 12/13 gauge from box to Moon Phono stage - Power Helix 12/13 from box to Schiit Bifrost - the Bifrost has a split USB cable - one side power one side signal with a stable external power supply - all IC's are the Helix MK V - digital IC - Helix Mk V Digital (which has the Silver Harmony RCA's and copper signal wire - I found a standard Helix MK V with Absolute Harmony and silver signal wire made no difference to the sound when used for digital stuff I tried different permutations attaching the PC's to components, but the usage described above provided the most optimal results. I used both DH Labs and Furutech for the live conductor on the PC's and I really can't tell the difference anymore. But that may well depend on the component it's attached too Keep me posted - I would be most interested to hear your experience. cheers |
todd.... glad to hear the cables are working out for you Your other power upgrades provide a very solid foundation for your system, great choices. The power cables do sound good from the start, but they do get better with time :-) The IC's also sound good, but after about 20 hours they start to sound a little harsh. By about 60 hours they start to smooth out and just get better from there. As for your so called "meagre gear" - your setup is more than capable of highlighting the improvement these cables are capable of conveying, as you will discover :-) Your system would love the Helix Mark V IC's, but rather than opting for the design on my site, you can scale back to the Silver Harmony RCA's and use a quality copper signal conductor in place of the silver and still get great performance. You can then "upgrade" as time and budget (and desire) allows. what speaker cables are you using? You are pretty much following the same route I took, in that first I selected some good components, then sorted the cables and finally sorted the room treatments, keep me posted on your progress |
Todd - something that came to mind - with components that have higher quality power supplies - improvements tend to be more "subtle" For example - for a component with a small power supply - you might hear an improvement in dynamic performance, bass depth and control etc.. Whereas for a component such as your pre-amp - you will probably find more subtle improvements in things like dynamic speed, clarity, resolution and a mode complete image with more subtle venue acoustics Noticing the subtleties was something a I had to really listen for, but once you notice them they become something you easily find missing in other less adept systems. Regards.... |
Todd - regarding the Harmony connectors... I have tried all of the connectors on both analogue and digital versions of my Helix cables and here are my observations/opinions... For digital SPDIF interconnects... --- I found the Silver Harmony were more than adequate and provided better SQ than the Copper Harmony --- using either the Pure Harmony or Absolute harmony did not improve SQ in my system --- having said that - my highest digital resolution is 24/192 For analogue interconnects... --- I would not bother buying the Copper Harmony because the Silver Harmony are so much better and well worth the additional expense --- I would also not bother with the Pure Harmony because for the additional expense of the Absolute Harmony they provide much better SQ I have also tried them all on my TT’s once piece loom and stand by my findings for Analogue IC’s above Having said that - we all have a budget that constrains us, so pick the very best RCA you can afford for the application it is to address. When soldering the Harmony RCA’s - plug them into an unused component (if you have one) or get an RCA socket - it helps dissipate the heat so as not to melt the plastic housing and also makes for a much better joint FYI - the Harmony RCA's take time to settle and burn in also - so give them lots time. - 1-2 days to settle after connecting OR re-connecting them - upwards of 100 hours to burn-in - 200 hours yields their best performance Regarding Speaker cables... My only stab at DIY was using CS-122 and D-352 bulk cable from Van den Hul, which performed very well and were in my system for a very long time I did try a couple of models of Kimber Kable, but found the Van den Hul performed better in my system But just as an FYI... I later had the opportunity to try KLE Innovations gZero 2, gZero 6 and an older version of one of their newer ZPURITY cable. - the gZero2 bested my DIY cables significantly - the gZero6 provided faster dynamics, deeper bass and better image than the gZero2 - The zPurity provided marginal improvements over the gZero 6 in my system - but not enough to warrant my buying them - I had all of the above cables in my system for 2-3 weeks, which allowed a certain amount of settling and burn-in time At first glance, I found the KLE Innovations cables skinny, compared to my 10 gauge D352's, which left me wondering how they would compare - it only took one track to hear the vast improvement. I currently use the gZero 2 on my AV system and gZero 6 on my Audio system and have stopped looking. I have also tried some other pretty expensive big name brands, but have not found anything that outperform the KLE Innovations products - yet :-) I have not tried a DIY solution along the lines of the Helix geometry for speaker cables - mainly because making long cables in the Helix style becomes very difficult. But I’m still pondering a solution :-) Regards... |
Todd - The extended length of the neutral conductor will not impact SQ at all - in the grand scheme of things, when you are travelling at close to the speed of light - a few extra feet is nothing. What's more important in the helix design is the low capacitance and inductance and their ability to reject EMI/RFI. You will notice that for the power cable and the IC's, the neutral conductor is thicker than the signal/live conductor - so adhere to that design point. For Speaker cables I would try a high quality solid copper conductor of 14 gauge and for the neutral I would use two 14 gauge stranded standard quality conductors (equivalent to 11 gauge) Keep me posted as to how you get on Cheers |
