If you choose to upgrade the speakers I would recommend against the Golds - as I owned them for three years and find the bass kind of muffled and boxy. |
Pops & G13 have both expressed my sentiment regarding the SR Master Couplers. Despite other improvements, I experienced considerable thinning of the bass region with those particular AC cords when I tried them. I also have one SR Reference AC which works much better as an all-around cord. Right now it's on the CD player, but it might be found connected to any of various components, or none at all, depending upon my setup. Their next better cords (the Resolution Reference AC, & Designers Reference AC) did not do so well for me but again that is all system-dependent. However their best cord, the Designers Reference Squared AC, sounded so good that I had to buy another one. |
I think the most cost effective and prudent thing to do would be to try and maximize what you have first. Either by speaker placement or making sure your isolation system is good. I would approach this much like trouble shooting a computer. If you succeed in improving your sound through this manner, you will have spent less money. If it still isn't quite there, at least you will have eliminated some important variables and can then move on to other possibilities.
I agree with many people here that the Stratus Silvers may not be up to par with your electronics. Vandersteen and Meadowlark are very good suggestions. I would also look into ProAc. Detailed without being harsh. And a gigantic soundstage as a bonus.
I have not experimented with different power cables, but I have some experience with copper versus silver speaker cables and interconnects. Maybe a pair of Analysis Plus Silver Ovals will help extend both ends, and add some detail.
But again before spending a lot of money, I would tie up any existing loose ends first. Good luck and have fun! |
Try a BMI power cord on your amp, then another one on the upstream stuff (You'll like them, I promise.) And they're really cheap. I had 2 master couplers, and was able to get BMI Eel Reference Customs PC's for less than what I sold the Master Couplers for.
Bass is MUCH better. |
I also agree with the other posts; your speakers are definately your weakest link. The ironic thing about this, is how well you've managed to assemble a world class system otherwise.
I strongly feel that you have two other areas to address, which will improve your system also (but not nearly as much as the speaker change). The MIT cables are not an accurate cable (by design), they are meant to have their "own sound". If you have a system that needs their type colorations, or "equalizer with a wire", then these cables can assist your systems' performance very positively. Unfortuntely, I don't think you system needs the MIT's coloration change, to make it perform correctly.
(Note: the Nordost SPM modification, as recomended by one of the other posters, is also deigned to sound a certain way, presenting certain positive colorations. They can sound spectacular in a system that needs their type of colorations, but they are NOT neutral.
My suggeted wire choice would be Analysis Plus cables. They are the direct opposite in their sonic charactaristics of what the MIT are. They are very, very accurate, and have almost any colorations whatsoever.
My final recommendation is to have your cd player modified by someone like Stan Warren. The Sony does not use high end output devices, and also can benefit from some power supply tweaks.
(Note: Ever wondered what the major electrical differences is between the high end digital makers Theta, Levinson, Krell, from Japanese companies like Sony and Pioneer Elite. The "high end" companies always have much better output devices for their gain stages(i.e. dictrete, no I/C's), and more rigurous power supplies, with much better capacitors. If Sony and other Japanese cd player manufacturers recognized these difference, and then implemented the above changes, I'm not sure that ANY of the high end player companies could stay in business, charging the premium they do, for what could be a very small sonic difference.
Maybe one day Sony or another Japanese company will get a clue, and implement the above aformentioned modifications to their designs (the cost difference, in mass quantities for these kind of upgrades would be less than $40 per unit!) |
Change your speakers for stators. They are just perfect for the kind of music you prefer. |
Patrick, I'll take a shot. Here's what I'd do starting with the least expensive. Try a mit 2 power cord on your amp, the SR master on my classe makes the soundstage thick, slow and creates a mid bass hump that is distracting. Classe amps are high current, and I think Plinus is also, that's why lots of Classe and Spectral amps are demo'ed in stores with mit powercords. I use the SR masters on my digital front end and they are superior to the mit in that context. Next, I'm a big mit fan but based on my experience ic's and speaker cables should match to really get the benefit of the coherent sound you get from all mit. Go for 330 shotguns or better if you can swing it - used. I would live with that change for a few months to let everything settle and burn in. Next, If not completely satisfied (who ever is in this hobby), I'd look into a tube preamp. Good luck... |
My experiences are the same as above. Your equipment should be enough to get you there. Speaker placement, isolation, shelving, tweeks... Search "winter lessons", those are my experiences that brought out the final 15%. And have fun! J.D. |
The MIT cables are the weakest link in your system though I don't believe they would create the problems you mention....if anything bass should be their strong point. A cable change may be worth a try anyway. Your speakers are more likely the problem. Though they are very highly regarded, I have never found PSB speakers to have clean bass. Good extension, just not clean / tight. I'd audition some others and see what you like....I can't make a recommendation because I haven't heard Plinius. Good Luck, Dave |
Well, Before you start changing all the variables around and switching gear, I'd say this...You've got some really good pieces to work with, so I'd work on getting the maximum out of what you've got first! And, if you must change gear, only do one piece at a time!!!..that way you know where your at with your system!
My first inclination in regards to your concern about bass muddle would be that your speaker placement in the room needs work! (Or your seating placement, or both.) Speaker placement and seating in a room are the most important in getting good bass response from the speakers!!! Most people don't even have a clue!..really!
If you have a small room, this is even more likely a challenge! You've got a much better chance of getting good/flat bass response if your in a large room to begin with...small rooms are much more work generally, and are more picky to speakers as well. Bass Traps in the corner are usually mandatory in helping get boom out of the room as well!
Also, with the detail, you migh want to consider acoustic room treatment considerations (i.e, diffusing/absorbing first reflection points). If you can't control (caution, balance here!) first wall reflection points, the detail is all smeared and non defined sounding!
Now, once you've worked your room/set-up where you've got the best your going to get out of it in your room, I'd say it's time to, yes ,upgrade those otherwise good for the $ speakers (not Stratus Gold I's either!!!..the silvers are better overall actually!) for more refined/detailed one's. There's a gillion clear/detailed/pretty speakers out there that, set-up correctly, will satisfy all YOUR music needs, and give you plenty of good bass!...from what music you said you favor that is! If your after tight fisted Rock and Roll speakers, that's another story entirely!...
When you finally get into other gear mode however, I'd start with this order of changing things from where you are now...speakers first, then, if amp/preamp works fine with your new speakers, then keep em. Otherwise, find some new pieces that work better with your new speakers. Then, experiment around with changing some (one at a time) cables to match your new system! If you must upgrade your CD player, that really can be done without any real problem. Good luck |
One word: Q-tips. Try 'em and tell me I'm wrong.
If you're not too attached to your speakers, here are two options you might try. For supreme detail and transparency, consider electrostatic speakers. I've been very impressed with Martin Logan CLS IIz's. But bass isn't their forte. For a great speaker top to bottom with a slightly laid-back presentation, consider Talon Khorus' if they're within budget.
Maybe a dedicated CD player (Sony XA7ES?) could offer some slight improvements. I've also heard of aftermarket modifications that can be performed on the 9000ES that are said to be worthwhile. Good luck with the system. |
Speakers I agree, but I would try balanced Ic between CD and Pre-amp if the DVP has the feature. |
i'd start by learning to ask for advice. |
I would start by switching from Harmonic Tech to Acoustic Zen, they are about the same price. I have had all Harmonic Tech cables and Nordost SPM and Quattro Fil, as well as NBS Monitor 2. My system just got right with the Acoustic Zen cables, Silver Reference interconnect and Satori Speaker Cable. |
if you like harmonic cables, you ll fall in love to harmonic magic s cables |
Yup, the speakers sounds like your weak link.Audition Thiel CS3.6 when you can with your gears and you might like what you hear.Use a different speaker cables though as Thiels in my experience never like cables with boxes on them.NBS or Audioquest will work.Goodluck. |
I have to agree with the folks that suggest new speakers. Remember that the speaker is the only transducer in your system, and is therefore the most subject to problems of distortion, non-linearity, etc. Further, your speakers do not have the full-range frequency response of some models, which is probably why you think you don't get enough "kick". You have a lot of choices in full-range speakers, limited mainly by how much you are willing to spend. Your Plinius amp certainly has the "balls" to drive just about any full-range speaker you buy. You will probably get quite a few suggestions about which speakers to audition, but I'd certainly listen to one of my personal favorites, the Vandersteen 3A or 3A Signature, which can be purchased used for about $1800 and $2500, respectively. |
I agree, the speakers are the weakest part of your system. I had a Plinius SA 100 with my Meadowlark Heron I's. Detail and bass were great. |
PSB Status Silver- You Are The Weekest Link. Goodbye.
Actually they are nice speakers, so try moving them around and look at the room itself. If that dosnt help, its time to start thinking speaker upgrade. I am afraid the rest of your system has risen to a higher level. Try the Gold i and others. With your setup you shouldnt have problems with detail or bass extension. Good luck. |
It sounds like you have a problem with setup. Your equipment is more than capable of providing the detailed full range sound you seek. Play around with speaker placement. Also take a good look at how your components are sited (equipment stands, speakers spiked, isolation devices). One note of caution, above a certain level of equipment and setup, the recording can become the limiting factor. It's possible that you music simply doesn't have the kick you desire. |
Do we have any room treatment? Power treatment? Isolation treatments? As far as the equipment - nice choices. More always costs more; There is plenty of room for improvement/such as zillion $$ amps;speakers etc. No; Your not there yet. If these were my pieces,I'd have my eye on even better speakers. Remember we are all addicts; the journey is the fun part. It's easy to become complaisant/or bored; spending more money is the temporary fix. enjoy!! |
My next move would be to try Nordost SPM Reference speaker cable
I think the Monsters are not up to the quality of the rest of your system |
