Anticables


Does anyone have any experience with Anticables products? I spent over $600 on a pair of honestly cheap-looking ICs from them and after 400 or so hours burning them in I'm hard-pressed to tell the difference between them and an old set of no name ICs built from pro cable stock and heavy metal RCA connectors.

For all I know they are made out of regular bulk copper spools in a plastic sheath and wrapped in a Slinky.
madavid0

Showing 10 responses by madavid0

Lol, you get what you pay for is common sense but sometimes that common sense gets lost in the hype. Still, I'd hope the cables would beat some good pro cable ICs I had sitting in the basement for years. I forget how much they cost -- I want to say around $20?
If they sound essentially the same as no name $20 pro cable that does seem to suggest I bought a cable that is essentially $20 with a gigantic markup, and the talk about silver-gold alloy and special dielectric properties, etc, is just BS!

I haven't completely given up on them yet, I have a new amp coming in and there are more configurations to try them in first. It could be that the bright 6922s I'm using are smearing things too much for example. I'll get Anticables's input as well. But as of today they ought to go right back.
Lol, yes, I followed the arrows. I also tried them going in the wrong direction -- no difference was readily apparent to me!
BTW, the cables in question are the 6.2 ABSOLUTE Signature RCA which is their top of the line.

I guess for now I'll swap out my current tubes with my best 1975 Reflektor silver shields...maybe swap back in my Utopia's original cabling and see what comes out of it...
Thanks for comments, I was a little concerned because there's not many reviews online as compared to say -- Shunyata, Cardas, AudioQuest, etc.

There WAS a big difference prior to burn-in, namely I found the AntiCables cold and lacking in detail compared to the no-names. After the 400 or so hours of burn-in those problems appear to be gone -- but I expected to hear more than 0 difference!

Oh well, I'll play around with some other configurations and see what happens...
I have no reason to believe Anticables is scamming me in the sense of a bait-and-switch or the like.

But -- for example -- if the conductors are not a gold-silver alloy but actually just standard copper wire stock, I think that could be called a scam. Likewise if they purposefully misrepresented subjective qualitative claims that would also be a scam.
My system is in a state of flux right now. Recently I began investigating speakers coming from a headphone background. I've tried the 6.2 cables on a Teac AI-301DA and a Schiit Mjolnir 2. The Teac is used as a speaker amp, but I'm unhappy with its performance so I have an Emotiva A300 on the way. The Teac, the Emotiva, and the Chane A1.4 speakers I'm using are for experimental purposes -- to see if the speaker thing is for me or not.

So, my best amp is the Mjonir 2 with a set of 1975 Reflektor Silver Shields, which is a headphone amp. My headphone reference chain is as follows:

Dedicated Audio PC -> Supra USB -> LKS USB-100 (I2S bridge) -> 1' generic HDMI -> Gustard X20U (I2S port) -> 6.2 ICs -> Mjolnir 2 -> Focal Utopia.

I have a Furutech GTX-D NFC(R) outlet dedicated to the amp and DAC. The amp (whichever one I'm using at the moment) is plugged into the outlet with a Audio Sensibility Testament power cable. The DAC is plugged in with a Lessloss Original cable.
Well I've been burning the 6.2s in almost non-stop.

I sent back the Teac and replaced it with an Emotiva A300. I know this amp isn't exactly the best amp in the world, but it certainly beats the little Teac. I'll run some comparisons on the speaker setup, and if nothing will hook up the Mjolnir 2 for listening with my Utopias.
Okay guys, OP here with an update.

I ended up sending the 6.2s back, which AntiCables honored quickly and without fuss. I had an 845 SET amp coming in from China as I suspected my Emotiva was really letting me down (which, as it turned out, was the case) but my 30 days was up so I had to send them back. Also, these Chane A1.4s are really, really unresolving and seriously lack force/drive. I guess what that boils down to was that my system isn't, and still isn't, really capable of showing the difference between interconnects.

My headphone setup is much more resolving, but the trouble there was that I was feeding a balanced amp (Mjolnir 2) from a balanced DAC (Gustard X20) using single-ended cables, which may have muddled the signal too much to tell a difference between interconnects. Certainly, using my Audio Sensibility XLRs there was a noticable improvement -- which, as I just suggested, might be more due to the balanced topology of my DAC and headphone amp.

BTW, this is the Chinese amp I just bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Music-Angel-XDSE-HiFi-845-Vacuum-Tube-Amp-Class-A-Stereo-Integrated-Amplifie...~

The Chanes:
https://www.chanemusiccinema.com/A1.4

The DAC:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GUSTARD-DAC-X20-ES9018-XMOS-Optical-Coaxial-AES-EBU-DAC-384KHz-DSD-DOP-Decod...