Amplifier advice from Ohm Walsh 100 Mk. II owners

I picked up a second hand pair of tad hibachi 2 amps that should arrive week.

I'm trying them out as an upgrade in my second system driving a pair of Triangle Titus XS along with the sub. I'm expecting good things there.

Not planning to use them with any OHMs currently though except perhaps as a back-up if needed there. Would be interesting to try that combo though if I like what I hear with the Triangles.

"It's too bad they dropped the casters from the newer Ohms. "

I agree, but I suspect they could be done by special request, especially with refurbished cabinets, or they may not be hard to add yourself.

What are the power, input impedance, current delivery and damping specs on the Sumo and Hafler amps?

Most any amp will drive them if used in the correct matching size room (see OHM web site for model to room size mappings).

To drive and CONTROL them to their max however (can be a BIG difference in results) in a properly matched room, I'd recommend a beefy 80 w/ch or higher amp with good current delivery capability and damping factor of 50 or higher to be safe.

Similar for larger Walshes but for those I would throw as much power and current with high damping as is possible at them. Class D amps are an excellent choice to accomplish this with reasonable cost of ownership these days.

Because the OHm Walshes have ben reasonably affordable over the years, a lot of people (including myself) have made the mistake of running them of similarly affordable receivers or integrateds that work OK but are not able to drive and control them to the max, which is needed to get the results that might be considered competitive soundwise with many of the "big boy" higher end systems out there.

I think either amp should work well with either MicroWalsh or 100. I'd try each and see and then go from there if needed.

Again, make sure these are the right size for your room based on the model to room size mappings on the OHM site. 100s will do better in a larger room than Micros.

In teh case where the OHM Walshes are undersized for the room, even in the case of Micro Walshes, adding and integrating a good subwoofer later if needed is a good way to make up the difference in lieu of going to a larer model.

Also, some report good results using even tube amps with the OHM Walshes when subs are used to offload the work needed for the low end. So adding a sub and offloading the work for teh low end to it is another option for weaning better performance out of any given amp.

HAven't tried subs with 100s (no need in my 12X12 rooms that I use them in).

Choice of sub will also probably largely depend on room size.

Bigger room-> bigger sub with more power needed. That usually always is the case.

The line I am most familiar and comfortable with from having heard sound good in higher end dealer systems in general is Rel. That is a popular line with the audiophile crowd in general. I am sure there are many other good ones though.

In general, 2 subs are usually better than 1, but 1 can work well especially if big enough and you have flexibility with locationand used with more full range speakers to start (like the 100s) where the crossover frequency need not be too high. Higher frequencies are more directional sounding in nature so a lower crossover point is generally better especially if using just one sub.

Personally, I would rather right size the OHMs to the room if possible rather than go the sub route, but that is just me. You might defer some cost adding a sub later, but not really save much if any money in the end once you do.

Plus the Walsh drivers are full range up to about 7Khz or so, which is part of its magic in terms of coherency. Crossing over to a sub might intrude on that.

YEs, I would say MartyKL is the one to talk to with the most experience I know of regarding use of OHMs with subs and tube amps and how that setup might compare to others.