All Maplenoll owners

I 'd like to share my recent experience with maplenols's owners. I read many times how difficult is to cvlean the small holes inside the air chanber of Maplenoll's arm. I tried to do this with my Maplenoll tonearm when I needed to replace the air pump. No problem with the platter it is very easy to suspend it ; at the opposite the tonearm need a higher pressure. So after I bought a new pump( Takazugi 80) and I realized that the air was not enough for the arm I decide to check if the holes inside was patent and well functioning: to do this a removed the black metal block where the horizzontal arm ( piston) is inserted and after to have inspected the plastic plug wich connects the air tube to the base of the black block, I removed the cylinder ; it is not difficult just use an hammer and give some well addressed bit to the external ring ( Pay attention to not damage the internal surface). The cylinder it is hold in its position by two 0rings.After you have removed the cylinder you can see the holes where the air pass trough the air chamber to the internal surface of the cylinder ; they are four for each side . Now you can unscrew the screws inside the holes , clean them with thricloroethilene and then replace them. Remove the 0rings and subsitute them or simply clean them ( Do Not use or touch them with thricloroethilene): put a little amount of grease . After that you replace the screws and if you want a little bit air more ( this was my case)after you tight the screws turn them back for an hafl round. Replace all and try . To have a better air distribution is better to separate the two pipe line outside the tuntable creating an Y and put on each a meter to measure the air flow.
This confirms my suspicion that the Maplenoll turntable was not designed to reproduce music but is instead an entrance exam for the Secret Society of Mad Scientists. I suspect they will be contacting you shortly.
Use a hammer? I don't think I'll try that one!!!!
Neat response, as these tables are not plug and play. However, the ariadne signature and apollo tables are really some of the finest systems to recreate the magic in the grooves. Some people have tried these tables and given up due to the issues with getting them initially set up and optimized. I did struggle with my first one. However, now owning three different maplenoll models including my fairly recent apollo purchase, I actually find these tables easy to set up and optimize. Concerning the original comments on the air distribution, flushing the circuit is an easier way to clean if you feel that one or more of the openings is fouled or plugged. I have not experienced a problem with the nozzles but learned early on this type of airbearing does require a high pressure air source. I have operated one table using two pumps, but also found that a good needle valve on the platter and arm allowed for great control of the pressure at the platter and arm.
I have not had one but a friend , Foster Blair, has one. He finally gave up on it and he is as technically competent as anyone I know. He does the tube restorations for Mapleshade and has been known to wire kits just for the fun of it , not to listen to. I have no doubt that , WHEN WORKING, they are one of the best tables. Do you know the story of how the tables inventor managed to blow up a gas station with a weapon he was developing for the Pentagon?
Well, you've got us hanging - - just how DID the inventor blow up a gas station? Please divulge the details!
I don't know the full story but he was caring it around in the back of his truck ARMED; hit a bump and it went off.Scratch one gas station. He was bailed out by someone from the Pentagon; I had always assumed that they somehow squared it but I have recently heard that he had to serve time for it. Perhaps that is why the table went out of production. I have a bunch of friends in DC but just get snapshots of what must be a fascinating audio community. With Pierre at Mapleshade being a former defense dept. analyst who worked on the F16 and A10 and Anthony Cordesman also doing defense analysis there appears to be considerable crossover. Perhaps this is why high end audio prices have escalated so much, they are using weapons systems as a model. LOL
i am in the thousand oaks area of los angeles new to the maplenoll and having to install a new motor , which is on its way, i purchase a new belt and rewired the tone arm but was hoping some one local could help me with the set up if familiar thanks gregory 602-300-4819 Air pump seems to be working i do have a little warble on the brass pin on the top plater does this matter and was thinking of taking it to a machine shop to see if they could re straiten, I also need a new cartridge any suggestion that won't bankrupt me. thanks any help is needed i have also started to construct the plenuem chamber out of pvc 4" so guys any one that local and can help me set this up i am so new to all this and jumped in full
Arabian--are you seeing the platter wobble a little? Usually its not the brass pin (female end) but rather the teflon/delrin end(male end) is worn. I have 3 of the Maplenoll's, the white ariadne reference with the light (ie 40Lb) platter, the grey ariadne signature, and the apollo. I am in the process of completely rebuilding the white one in a fashion that CREM1 did a few years ago.

Please understand, i am not saying the plastic or teflon pin is absolutely the issue, but unless someone modified the air bearing plates, the bottom plate (stationary one) has the pin that the top bearing plate (via the brass insert sleeve) sits upon. As the air slightly lifts the platter, this plastic pin is the actual centering pin that keeps the platter from moving off center. I struggled for quite a while before i learned about the worn pin. The pin can get worn by a previous owner not keeping the brass sleeve lubricated or the platter was slightly off level and the pin got worn as the platter rotated. You can force the pin out by removing the lower platter and using a punch, carefully remove. If you have a machine shop, you can have the take either a round stock of delrin or teflon and carefully turning it down until it just fits the top sleeve. Hope this helps