Advice on "Re-Clocker" for My USB Port to my DACs

I'm fairly knowledgeable but by no means an "expert" on digital audio, so I'd like to see what others can contribute to the question of adding a "re-clocker" between the USB port on my Windows10 Pro machine and my (PS Audio DirectStream & Mytek Brooklyn) DACs.

On the Windows machine I stream Tidal and use Roon.  The sound quality is excellent already.  But when I upgraded to the PS Audio DirectStream transport, with an I2S interface to my DirectStream DAC, that became the best sounding digital in my system.  The more I investigate why, the more people let me know that the I2S interface separates the "bits" from the "timing", and that's probably why it sounds a tad bit better than the USB port into the DACs.

I'd be willing to spring for a "re-clocker" and also maybe an external outboard power supply for the "re-clocker", if it would make a noticeable improvement in sound quality.

Thoughts about adding a "re-clocker"?
Steve, what about PS Audio's LanRover and others? 

Here's a comparison review of several, fwiw:


P.S Like the OP, I'm very interested to know from actual users whether these reclockers have a SIGNIFICANTLY [positive] impact on sound quality.

I use the iFi SPDIF iPurifier for my home theater Dolby Digital and DTS soundtracks, even my smart TV and cable box. Works great. Much better movie sound now.

Never heard or measured the iFi nano USB.

Each of these reviewed evidently have their unique jitter signature. I don’t believe any of them are really low in jitter like my Synchro-Mesh for S/PDIF PCM, but they definitely help. It’s nice to see more USB solutions out there. Reclockers are good.

Steve N.

Empirical Audio

Yes they can make a big difference. I use the SOtM tX-USBultra powered by a LPS. Raised my digital system to new levels. Many reviews and comparisons say it beats other tested devices. My ears tend to agree. I tried the W4S, iFi, and other units and it blew them away.
There's of course Schiit Wyrd for $99. Interesting choice of the name given the twice as expensive Wyred4sound product.
Just like anything else in audio, the limiting factor is always the depth of your pocket.
Here’s another shoot-out comparison of several different and different types of units to use between computer USB and a DAC.

I use an Intona industria galvanic isolator myself. It does several things, but mainly it blocks noise from the computer. It also doesn’t require a power supply. It seems that all the units requiring a power supply do not exhibit their best performance unless used with an optional linear power supply, and these can be very expensive. I’m not certain but because I have 2 femtoclocks on a USB to IS2 board I don't need a unit whose primary function is reclocking, But with generous return policies on many units I may try some others.
One of my audio buddies recommended I snag an SOtM tX-USBultra with their sPS-500 power supply.

I tried the Schitt Wyrd and didn't experience any difference in the sound quality (apparently the USB port on my Dell is not so bad).

With some nice cables, adding the SOtM pieces will be north of $2k, so I thought I'd get some opinions before making the plunge.

For over $2K, I think I would try this first:

Ethernet is the best current solution. You can use Roon/Tidal or even better Minimserver with Linn Kinsky if you don’t use Tidal.

You will need to get Ethernet CAT7 cables, a EMO systems EN-70e, and a grounded LPS for your router like the Sbooster, but even with all of these I think you will be under $2K with the UltraRendu.

The other thing that this does is eliminate all of the tweaks that are necessary with USB to get superb SQ.

Steve N.

Empirical Audio