Wrap the power cord connectors with electrical tape, or put one layer of heatshrink tubing on them. Easy fix.
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Tvad- I've tried tape with only partial success. It seems the inlet is slightly tapered, so taping Marinco connector prevents full insertion.
Kenscollick- Your tip of bending the contacts might have some merit. My incentives for replacing the IEC include thr understandin that some are spring loaded and exert a thght grip. Also, I am attracted to the idea of moving up in quality, if it would improve the sound of my system.
I tried your suggetion with regard to Blutack. To say it worked seems, at this time, an understatement. The connectors are staying in place, and there is a remarkable effect on the sound.The image has enlarged, become more specific, and noticably more transparent.
No doubt part of the positive result simply stems from a more solid connection, but I would guess part of it has to do with the vibration damping effect of the Blutack. You may have found a significant tweak here. I'll try it on the IECs on my SACD player and preamp. If it works out, I'll let you know.
Arthursmuck and Sherod- I'm applying it as a small ring on the Marinco connector,where it will contact the inlet only in the area furthest from the inlet's prongs, where I certainly don't want it to reach.
I have now installed it on the connectors for my SACD/cd and preamp, in addition to my monoblocks. The jury is still out, as the effect is not nearly as dramatic as when I used it to tweak my monoblocks. After I've lived with it for a while, I'll have a better sense of it. In any case , doing the monoblocks was very worthwhile
Sherod- Yes, this is the stuff. Except, I paid $3.29 for it at a local merchant.
First, I rolled the Blutack [you will have to kneed real Blutack to make it pliable] into a "rope" about the diameter of a pen, and cut this "rope" to fit around the outside of the power cord plug. I pressed the power cord very firmly into the IEC, and got essentially a removable "putty joint" between the plug & the IEC. Depending on your power cord termination, you may have to press the Bluetack into the physical connection. of the cord pug & IEC. Be sure to hold the power cord in place for 20 seconds to let the Blutack "set-up". The Blutack should form a seal between the two...make sure that the outside if the plug & the IEC are clean and dry before you start [clean with isopropyl alcohol...90% or greater, if you can find it].
Tho generic stuff is much tackier and pliable than Blutack. Removing the generic can be a pain, especially if it is exposed to heat. It will turn into a sticky gooey gum like blob...trust me, I found out the hard way!
I'd fix the connection right, either by finding a correct plug-socket fit or elinimating the connectors all together and soldering things permanent. Putting in globs of goop , tape, whatever, to fill up space is a good way to end up with a hot joint over time and is dangerous from a fire perspective.
If you are in the market to change out your IEC inlets for some of higher quality ... check these out ... IEC with Retainers
Scroll down to the very last picture on the page and view IEC with retainer clip
I'm getting in late on this one but I have the same problem. The higher up the component on my rack, the more weight pulling down on the power connection and I was getting sporadic disconnection. I bought two less massive PC's but I prefer the larger power cables. For $3 you guys just solved my problem. I tried some fairly creative stuff but nothing seemed to work.
Drubin is right. The idea of "gluing" the cord to the chassis, with real Blu-Tack, or the generic stuff from Office Depot, doesn't appeal to me, for the reasons stated by Jeff_jones.
I use a mechanical solution where it's feasible -- I support the power cord plugs with small wood blocks under them so they stay in place.
I've often thought the connectors should be held in place with screws, like serial cables on computers. I'm sure I'm not the only genius out there.
Dave, Thanks for the link. Looks like an elegant solution. Does anybody know how well they work?
What would be great is a holder that could be used with existing IECs without requiring opening equipment and removal/replacement. Why can't a holding clip like the one pictured be installed on any IEC that screws in (as opposed to the (minority) press-in-place ones?
The retaining wire and two longer screws shouldn't cost more than 125 audiophile dollars. Some enterprising soul could make a fortune and earn fame and the undying gratitude of millions (or at least thousands).
Power cord manufacturers could supply them with each power cord.
OK, brainstorming here but you get the idea.
Drubin, I share your frustration and wish there was an easy way to change the "standards". It is not just the IEC end. I am not happy with the wall end of things either.
I have had good luck with PS Audio connectors and chose them because I now believe that the connectors and a vise-like junction is more important than the wire contained within the cord. I treat the prongs with conductor fluid and I know when I have trouble pulling out the plug that it is the right connector. I love the idea of a small screw tightener like computer serial cords. There's a marketing opportunity!
#1 the IEC is a computer industry connection, and is a bad but cheap choice for audio use and especailly with Monsterous sized power cables.. Why somebody decided to use this standard is beyond me accept it simply was an approved and abundant available option in the first place, big reason why we buy a new Audio component for 10,000 bucks and get a 60 cent 18 gauge computer power cord with it.
We should have gear with a locking type connection anyway.. Or hell a Standard 3 prong Hubble outlet with another standard AC plug would be perfectly fine.. So you would then buy power cables with a standard 15 amp connection identical on both ends of the power cord.
Markertek was wrong but if you google iec connector retaining clip, the first hit you get IS (drum roll, pls)....
, which takes you right there. Its not always easy to get them installed if you hae big fingers, but there it is.
Man, I guess that some Audiophiles are REALLY anal. I am using a very heavy power cord on my tube preamp, which sits on the top shelf. The weight of the cord will pull it out just enough to create a problem with the right channel.
The Blutack fix is cheap it works, it's removable [it's been in place for 2 years with no slippage], it doesnt require a major project involving time & money, and as others have suggested, it might even dampen vibrations.
Watch Apollo 13 to see what can be done to improvise a solution [the CO2 scrubber problem]. Sometimes, even a rocket scientist doesn't have to be a rocket scientist...just a handy-man with common sense!