a question about Aurios Media Isolation Bearings

What version of the MIB's is (supposedly) self-centering? I can't seem to determine this from their website.

The reason I ask is, I've used a set of the original Daruma's under a CDP, and not only was the set up sort of tedious, they didn't "stay set". Whenever I pushed a button on the CDP, even cautiously, it slightly disrupted positioning. And if anybody else (heaven forbid) used a button on it, well, it was REALLY off. I went back to cones.

I'd love to hear which version MIB was easier to set up and/or stayed in position better. Or if some other brand of ball bearing type of isolation (Rollerblocks, the newer Daruma's, etc.) are better than Aurios for staying put. Thanks.
another thing you could try is to shim them so that they all point to the center of the component. That way, the weight is providing a force for self-centering...

best of luck,
I use the original MIB's with care and have had better performance with them in my systems than with other supports for CDT and turntable for vinyl records. You are correct that one has to have a light touch and value the benefits enough to use the Aurios requiring a flat surface beneath them.
I have used a Vibrapod (these give way or compress slightly) beneath each Aurios so that there is a self-leveling from the weight of the component for my original Aurios MIB's. Minor additional cost but has seemed an ingenious way to enjoy the original Aurios. For a heavier component one can even use an Isoblock (rubber-cork-rubber anti-vibration sandwich block borrowed from use in the plumbing field) beneath an Aurios and the outer rubber ribs compress enough to self level.
By positioning a hand with counterpressure there is usually an improvised way to stabilize a component during the momentary pressing of a button or switch. And, thank goodness for remote control with digital. But, not practical if casual use by other less fanatical family members.
I glanced at the website, and the current 1.2 is self-centering and not billed as such because the previous versions no longer illustrated on the website. A few comments have been made that the original Aurios MIB sounds better than the subsequent models although I have not compared for myself. The giant size Professional model has always been self-centering from what I remember.
With the self-leveling tricks I mentioned you can buy the original Aurios at lower price from those who have not figured out a convenient way to maintain a level surface beneath Aurios MIB's.
I don't want to confuse you, but one can place onto the top wide flat circular surface of an Aurios MIB a non-slip vibration absorber item such as something from Herbie's Audio Lab so that you create a tower of anti-vibration products. Prevents easy slipping of the component being supported. Another minor additional cost in exchange for the anti-slip benefit.
These are some ways I have enjoyed playing with the original Aurios MIB's and eliciting an optimized sound from components.
The 1.1 and 1.2 are self-centering. The 1.1 are no longer available, but Music Direct has been advertising the 1.2 Classic for $150, but the supply was "limited", whatever that means? (I'd say "buy now you fool!") Be careful when buying used, ask questions to make sure the seller has in fact the 1.1/1.2. I've got the original and the newer ones, the originals are a #!*$ to level! The newer self-centering are a breeze to set up.
Up front disclosure - I am a dealer for Aurios bearings.
The discontinued Aurios MIB-Pro's were self centering.
The new model is called the Aurios Pro-MAX.
Much better sonics, finish, set-up than the older bearings.
I have them under many of my components with fantastic results!
Let me know if you are interested - thanks.
Thanks, everybody for all the good advice.

Unfortunately, my remote doesn't have a button for "open". So I do have to use the "open" button on the faceplate. And the buttons are the type that kind of have a detent, where you do have to exert a minor amount of pressure to actuate them. I can close it by hitting "play" on the remote, or by waiting 60 seconds and the tray automatically shuts. I've also done the "one hand on the top -- stabilizing it -- while the other hand's finger hits the button" routine.

I like the theory behind ball bearing isolation, so I'll try some of the ideas you all replied with. At least someone else has had the same trouble and has worked around it with success. Thanks, again!