A few more Ohm questions

There seems to be a bunch of knowledegeable Ohm types here. Since their web set ain't great, maybe you folks know:

The models are purportedly designed to sound similar - i.e., as you move up their product line, you get the same sound in a bigger room. How do the models differ? Is the same driver used in a different cabinet to alter bass response or do the different models use different drivers.

Also, if the main difference is room compatability then I'd assume that the differences from model to model focus mostly (though evidently not exclusively) on bass balance, how do the Ohm satellite/sub models differ? There is a satellite model equivalent for each full range model in the line, but all the sats are designed for use above 80 hz only. As far as bass balance goes, i would think the bass cut off would reduce the need for model differentiation that focuses on bass balance.

Do the different models become more directional in dispersion at different frequencies or at different rates to account for boundary differences that are likely to be found in different sized rooms? I suspect that speakers in small rooms are usually - though not always - closer to boundaries. Is this the basis for model differentiation?

The Micro Talls have a listed response down to 47hz. For full range operation, a sub is recommended (particularly for theater use, but optionally for music use, all per the website). How does the Micro Tall w/ a sub compare to the sat/sub combos they offer?

Following the very positive Ohm threads here has piqued my curiosity and the line certainly provides a more cost effective omni option than MBL or even Duevel. OTOH, I find the product line info on the web site awfully confusing.

These questions arose after a brief conversation with John - who was very helpful - and I'd rather see if I can get answers here before I bug him again.

Thanks in advance.


I can try to answer a few of your questions:

1) The Ohm sound does indeed sound very similar from model to model. I went from the Micro to the 100 and the difference was room fill. The sound and detail level was the same but they fill my room better. They also play louder obviously. Each model user a larger driver from the previous model I believe. The cabinet is also larger. At least this is the case with going from the Micro to the 100s
2) Even though the lower bass would be off-loaded to a Sub in the HT models, you would still want a larger driver to handle different SPL requirements. If you have a huge room, larger speakers will have an easier time getting to louder sound levels than smaller ones.
3) The Main Ohm's are crossed over to a super tweeter that is directional at the higher frequencies. In my experience the transition is very smooth. I believe they offer true omni's that are designed for use as surrounds.
4) I have used the Mirco's /w a sub in a music only system. This would give you more flexibility in where to set the crossover. 80Hz might be fine for some, but others may choose to cross over a bit lower depending on the application. In my setup, I did not have bass management so the extra bass from the Micros allowed me to cross the sub at a lower level to get a smoother transition.
5) I would recommend e-mailing or giving John a call. He is a great guy and my experiences have been very positive. If you have special needs they can work with you to tweak a model to your needs. Combine that with the great warranty and long audition period and they are definitely something to keep in mind. Someone can chime in and correct or add to anything I may have said but I hope this helps :)
Your best bet is to Call John. When I bought mine 2 1/2 years ago he was extemley helpful and patient with the most inane questions. I haven't heard their other current products so I can't comment there.

You can get them fitted with almost any veneer you want (at a price of course), mine are birds eye maple in a natural finish, but they sound better than they look. Very hugh WAF.

I've got an early pair of 100 M3, in M2 cabinets and the base goes down to 30hz, no need for a sub. YMMV

Good Hunting
Best to talk to John.

Get a specific recommendation from him to fit your needs then bounce it back here if you like for more feedback.

One thing to keep in mind is that larger models can achieve better "room fill" in larger rooms but you will probably also need a larger and more efficient amp with sufficient damping to control them properly.

Ohm does provide true omni configurations by request I believe that are recommended for surround sound. This is accomplished by orienting the tweet to face up rather than forward towards the center as I understand it.

Yes, I agree the website could use some improvement. The information is not always well organized and easy to digest.
Dale Harder's versions of the Walsh style loudspeakers look interesting. The specs and build quality appear to be superior to factory Ohm. Don't know if his speakers are available for demo, though.

One should be aware of the risk of damage to the cone drivers due to playing
them too loudly. Harder details this on his website.

The Ohms I demo'ed a few years ago did not handle decibel levels I
considered normal for my listening sessions (approx 90dB). Could have been
a one-off problem...not sure.
Thanks for the help everyone.

Both my Ohm Walsh speakers show no signs of stress at any decibel level I play them that. Many reviewers have pointed out this particular strong point of the design.

If there was a problem with a particular pair going loud as they should, I would expect that Ohm would address the problem immediately by replacing the bad driver. Their customer service tends to get very good accolades overall from what I read and that has been my experience as well. When they make a mistake, they tend fix it becasue a lot of their business is due to word of mouth and repeat business.