You can buy the connectors and tool at Lowes or Home Depot.
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Hi chess man , thanks for that response. Since you owned the p stack could you tell me if the p1a when receiving 48khz does the green light supposed to turn red and stay red? Also what dac did you replace it with. I think the perp dac and p3a work good for me since I mainly use it with my sonos which is said to have a lot of jitter . The p3a is supposed to get the jitter down before it goes to the dac.
The P-3A is the DAC. The P-1A is a digital upconverter and re-clocker that did reduce jitter imposed by the SPDIF cable feeding it. Green/Red lights really depend on the exact function in question and unfortunately I do not have the instructions. As I recall there is a phase invert choice that can result in a red light. There is also a choice regarding having the P-1A upconvert or having the P-3A upconvert. If you choose direct the P-3A should end up with three green lights and a red light would indicate a failure to lock the signal. Really need the instructions because each button was multi-function.
I went to a BAT VK-5D SE CD player when I stopped using the dac.